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Except there are multiple, independent, studies showing all the various parameters and how they impact rolling resistance/drag/etc. Only people who need 23 (or less) at 100 (or more) are trackies or (very) fast TTers where you have very smooth surfaces and sustained high speeds. Even then...

Recommended, but still completely unnecessary, i'm running 85 on my 23s and about 10 less on 25s.

Don't steepen it too much, or your position will all be to shit and might be uncomfortable for longer rides.

Meraklon liner gloves, cheaper than silk, more durable, probably warmer, also dry out in a couple of minutes. Used to buy three pairs for 20 quid at army surplus. Lobster claw outer gloves. Probably a good time to buy them as they are available and very little demand. And add a thin fleece glove...

Only got one MTB with tubes in it, studded tyres with wire beads don't like to go tubeless! All the road bikes are tubed though But i have a hook on the wall in the work shop with punctured tubes (never repair on the road, just replace and pump up) Sit down once every three or four years and fix...

A road bike frame that fits you will typically have a reach 6-8 cm shorter than an MTB frame that fits you. So if the MTBs fit. Prepare to use a very short stem

Yeah, you machine out the ID of the stem and it certainly won't fit.

Just dug out another photo, it's a top swing, band on, differential plate XTR...

TBH I can't remember. I'd have to go and have a look. It's had about 4 different front mechs on it, XTR differential/XTR conventional/e-type and band on. I've still got most of them...

It's an 18", but not for sale.

By popular request...got the rond quake forks somewhere, and the original wheels are long gone.

I posted it on one of the earlier threads. It's my old team bike.

Yes, most gravel bikes wouldn't be allowed to start anything under UCI rules, not sure how rigorously the three peaks adheres to them these days. And CX runs *everywhere* in the UK, there are leagues pretty much everywhere, COVID has knocked a big chunk out of it, but the calendar was rammed...

Nooooo, still have a regular turnover of snapped "mountain" bikes that have failed (literally) bouncing down a kerb. Mainly mail order. Also, mainly overpriced by 300%.

Except for the dozens of CX races that run across the country just about every weekend from September to Feb/March, some with ~150 starters... FWIW I regularly run my (nearly antique!) CX bike round the local MTB trails on its UCI compliant tyres (33mm wide.) not hard going at all. Just pick...

I've got one in the attic, probably need to see if it still works...

Not really, 5 minutes of doing some really basic checks and most modern kit slots together. Internal routing can be a pain if it's badly planned/designed/made.

@danson67 seems to be the man in the know for frame building bits n pieces

Dangerholm has got a modern HT Scale 29er down to 6.2 kilos. That's had shit loads of cash, expertise, custom components and time thrown at it. I'd not be surprised if it owes him €20000 (if it was a stand alone project). A rigid 26er you should be able to get well under 6 with the same sort of...

Couple of things, most competent riders know that weight is secondary to functionality, also "tip toe" might be more accurate than you think with a superlight project bike...