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https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=167613&view=unread#unread https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=167612&view=unread#unread Here we go again...

It's not a shimano hub, it doesn't have loose bearings. From what i can find on line, it's a rebadged DMR Revolver with shimano pattern freehub. Should be able to find exploded diagrams somewhere. EDIT:- https://steveukmtb.wordpress.com/dmr-revolver-rear-cassette-hub-overhaul/ There you go...

I suspect it's a 130BCD crank, so 38 tooth is minimum chainring size.

Problem with long cage road mechs of the sort of x400 and x500 era is that they (usually) use the same body and top jockey geometry, so you only gain wrap capacity, not sprocket size. So you could go triple, but not use a larger cassette. 6500 GS is one of those! On the other hand, shimano are...

FWIW, Shimano dual pivots are every bit as useful as v-brakes. And don't have to deal with the frame bosses moving out during heavy braking either! Decent cables and pads on the cheaper versions will transform them. (Most bike brands fit the cheapest cables they can and often skimp on the...

TBH, if you're always worrying about and planning for the once a year/decade/whatever event, it ruins everything else... Just do what works, then beat dents out of your rim with a rock once every blue moon

Yes, i've done back to back with a powermeter/GPS/stuff, only a limited sample size, but with my nice veloflexes in two sizes (same model in 23 and 25) the consistently fastest tyres are the 25s at 75 psi, no handling issues either. Done the same on the MTB, having to do it again now i'm on 29er...

Ahhh, feelings, can't argue with them. 😉

Ahhhhhh, I thought you'd nicked the insides from another AC skewer...

Eventually you'll get the same with any sealant. I just have a little jar of spare valves and a tool and swap them whenever I remember. Keep an old drill bit in there too so I can run through the valve body at the same time. The gummy valves I just clean with IPA whenever I remember, or notice...

Fortunately not, tubeless has lower rolling resistance at the same pressure (given same tyre/rim and a sensible amount of sealant) so you can lower the pressure significantly and have better traction and same rolling resistance. (Or leave the pressure the same and have less rolling resistance)...

Or you could just do the initial tubeless set up (which actually takes virtually no time in the grand scheme of things) and have even less punctures, less rolling resistance AND more traction, then take the tyre off when it's worn out?

Yeah, i've run it on a couple of CX bikes. Never had an issue with it, and i've had the tyres down to ~1.2bar, it's even using non-tubeless roadie rims (Open Pro) AND non-tubeless tyres. I even use the CX bike for MTB rides just to mix it up (but maybe 1.8-2bar). Been like that 6 or 7 years. The...

Different cleat, same basic technique, different feel, really not actually that good a pedal without some modifications/playing around with the elastomers. Variable release tension based on how gummed up they are and (allegedly) how cold/warm it is (i only ever used them in middle england, so...

Depends how far you're going to ride. Even on the most energy friendly film/motion setting, you'll only get 90 or so minutes. Not sure how much you'll get in the time lapse setting. If I'm filming anything, I take 4 batteries. At least.

Don't just go tightening spokes without something of an idea of what you're doing, it you'll end up with a really buckled wheel. The drop of oil diagnostics up there works well. Also, check the wheel is seated properly and the skewer is tight, and the seating faces clean and square. (And how...

Swap that entire assembly into the other skewer.

Yes, definitely. Guy I used to ride with had some issues with a Raynaud's type problem. Worst time of year for him was a typical British summer, when he'd get hot and sweaty climbing, or riding with a tail wind. A change in gradient (descent) or wind direction would see him in tears with the...

They're "standard" on many of the better cold weather shoes (cycling and non-cycling). I have them in both pairs of my Northwave cycling shoes and my winter work boots. (Shovelling snow in -20 needs some serious insulation!)

take the circlip off the end, the whole thing will (eventually) fall apart and you can reuse the axle and reassemble.