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Check the head tube badge. Check the bottom bracket shell for a number (or name). My Raleigh SBDU team CX bike started life as a yellow Diamond Back Monza (was the only stickers they could get hold of) but was a custom 853 Raleigh CX frame through and through... (And was originally made for N...

It won't once you've got a proper rim strip on, they are about 1.5 mm thick. Makes any tyre extremely tight.

https://www.wiggle.co.uk/stans-no-tubes-rim-strips No. A rim strip. Joes do them as well.

Get a tubeless conversion strip. Tubeless tape is designed for rims with tubeless features built in. Not normal hooked/hookless rims. I'm amazed it worked at all. I've got 117 and 217 to run perfectly and some early (and basic) mavic non-tubeless system wheels as well. The ex has cheap...

Yeah, i was very careful with mine, drilled and filed out to make sure it was perfectly clean, the washer is curved to fit the mudguard as well.

I think you can still get new Columbus Minimal forks in 1". They come with a ~280mm steerer IIRC

I've got a bolt through/threaded bridge on mine, so have a nice stainless washer and short hex bolt, slathered in paint. Plus a small hole, neatly drilled through the guard where the bridge used to be. Have used a spacer at the chainstay bridge before today. Not needed on the current frame...

The battery pack probably contains many standard size cells, 18650 for example. Once it's dead, get it re-celled. People are already doing this, hell, I've already done it on a bike light. Removed the crappy low capacity cells and rebuilt with something with 50% more capacity than the originals.

Castration expected...

Some do, some don't. The one we exploded in the DT lab at school span freely. Until we exploded it. I'd like to see how fast a saddle would come up on top of one of them, getting your crown jewels in the way would be a whole new type of pain...

Think the uncontrolled spinning might be a bit off putting...

But that doesn't answer the question. If none of them are sufficiently right, you've got no baseline. And it sounds like the Boardman isn't right anyway, short legs/long torso *usually* requires a long stem to get the stretch right, not slamming the saddle all the way back. You really need to...

a retro XC mtb should be set up Nah, anything you want to cover any sort of distance on, get a *properly set up road bike*. So not head down, arse up. Which is really for racing. And a thing for the OP, IIRC you've shown us some pretty weird and wonderful set ups for your retro road bike...

Get the threads chased out at a bike shop (or borrow the tools from someone) there's probably 2 decades of gunk and/or surface corrosion on the threads. The shimano sealed unit is probably a top limit of tolerance and the CnC isn't... The 1.37x24 TPI in 68/73 shells has been a thing for decades...

Not at 300 i wouldn't, but at 150, i'd have those on any of my MTBs or cross bike, despite being 25 years old, they still work better than most current offerings from the competition... I've just spent 130 quid on a pair of the current versions!

I guess if you're hamfisted enough to burn your fingers on the rotor when undoing a skewer, maybe quick releases aren't for you... and anyway, all thru axles are nondriveside, so can't be that much of an issue! (ok, the dozen or so thru axles i have here!)

I've had rears hooked and sometimes pulled open during races in pretty much every orientation. Even snugged tight right underneath the chainstay and (amazingly) between chain and seat stay... Haven't been in a position to fight for the holeshit for 20 years though, so these days it's whatever...

One reason I passed up on a used 10 speed Di2 group a few years ago. I got 105 for sightly less, and didn't have to butcher my frame to make it look "right". The 105 is still going strong on it's third build on my training bike. The Di2 is now no longer supported, spares/repairs only from...

You'll definitely get 11 speed in there, i have a 6800 groupset on my 97 team bike, the 130 back end was still "standard" until not very long ago. Now we have about 11 standards... :/ Only thing to watch out is if the top sprocket catches on the ends of the stays. I can only run 11 or 12 tooth...

Early 90's will mostly still be 1" threaded headsets (or converted to threadless) but 130 rear spacing, You'll probably need mid/late 90's to guarantee getting 1 1/8. You should be ok with normal drop calipers, unless it's designed for large tyres and/or mudguards. Might need some bosses taking...