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I've sorted it for now I think, I grabbed a random gear cable and filed the nipple down so it fits in the tube. Gonna use a steel cable connector to join the two cables up. But it'd be nice to know how that old crimp worked.

Hi guys, anyone know where I can get a crimp like this, for a 1950s BSA gear cable? The one here is slightly shorter than normal as I cut it down to remove some slack. The cable has snapped. The barrel is larger than a Sturmey Archer one.

I was wondering if they're some kind of reinforcement, to reduce the amount of bend on the forks as the bike carries more than it was designed to.

In this article: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_poverty_reduction Almost every bicycle has a pair of rails from the fork dropout to the steerer, with a pair of springs at the top. What are these for?

Sorted the lighting out now, the front light switch is in very poor condition, and there was a lot of corrosion on the earth plate on the rear light. I've put LED lights in that are AC/DC compatible. They flicker on AC but that's fine, I'm not expecting miracles - and they're much brighter...

Looks like the issue is with the switch in the headlamp. Wiring the bulb direct to the dynamo gets me an output.

Wondering now if the magnets needs recharging. I probably shouldn't have removed it from its shell.

Pretty sure the bulbs are fine, they're all showing resistance. A few more tests required...

Almost finished this now, with the exception of 2 ball bearings that aren't in the crank (not sure I can be bothered to get them back in). But I'm having issues with the dynamo. I'm seeing a voltage of 2-5V at the front lamp, but no illumination. Lamp is short circuit so I'm presuming it's...

There's no lock nut on the non-drive side of this hub, and looking at my photos from before I pulled it apart, there wasn't when I bought it. Seems odd to me, but the exploded diagram in the link above also shows no lock nut. Is that normal?

Thanks, all the bearings look fine to me so I'll just pack them with grease and smear some ATF over the rest.

Re the BSA rear hub - obviously the ball bearings take grease, but do the gears and pawls prefer grease, or oil? I did come across this sheet but it only explains operation, not service: http://www.sturmey-archerheritage.com/i ... ail&id=317

And I finally got the crank off. The non-drive side cotterpin is stuck fast, the nut just ploughed its way through the thread when I tried to hammer it out, so I think I'll take that to a mate of mine, who was a motor mechanic for 50 years. Interesting that the chaincase is bolted to the short...

Damn, that rear wheel is hard to get out. Perhaps there's an easier way but the mudguard is a real pain - it should be hinged IMO so you can swing it upwards out of the way! As well as disconnecting the chain, I removed the caliper and mudguard and finally it came out.

Yeah dead easy to get out. I was worried the chain would slip off the cog as soon as the links were removed but I was able to push both wires in to push the link out. The chain stayed where it was thankfully.

Well I want to get all the bearings out to check on their condition, chances are if the oil bath was lubricating the bottom bracket correctly then they'll be fine, and I think the rear hub should be fine too. The front bearings aren't too bad. I also want to clean all the gunge out that'll no...

Christ they didn't make it easy to remove the rear wheel...

The dynamo still works and the wheel spins as well as can be expected. The wiring is shot so when I replace that, is it normal to run the wiring up the inside of the fork leg (the base has a hole in it) and out the crown? Currently it's tied to the fork leg and I think it looks a bit ugly.

Here's what the BSA Hublite internals look like.

It looks like a light or special tourist from around 1950. https://onlinebicyclemuseum.co.uk/1950- ... model-wr6/ That page says that Sunbeams had a metal headtube badge by 1951, mine appears to have a very faded transfer (no holes for a badge that I can see) which might suggest it's 1951 at...