"Isn't modern bicycle technology absolutely wonderful?"😍

29ers are too big to do the technical switchbacks on (with any kind of flow). The course was probably laid down in 26 era …

They’re not, you were just trying to turn it like the 26” wheeled bike you’ve always ridden. Modern geometry will be as much to blame as the wheel size.

Riding a Retrobike is all about keeping your weight rearwards to stop yourself going OTB.
Modern bikes need much more weight over the front. Takes getting used to, but once you do there is so much confidence to be taken from sticky tyres, good brakes and suspension that works. Watch current XC racers and tell me again that 29ers don’t corner fast.
 
What he says.

I built one to see. Did a lap at mayhem on it. Then on a 26 and forgot the difference ending up face down in the trees. IMG_0777.webp
 
^^ I like doctor-bond’s post

Very much my experience of modern bikes. I’m trying to shave weight off my lardy 29er! It is is much less nimble/agile/flickable than 26, but on the techy stuff it is just so much more capable. If only there was an in-between wheel size….. :LOL:

Balancing act, isn't it? If you want the grippy, wide tyres that just hang on forever you have to accept the weight penalty. If you want long travel and burley, stiff forks the same applies.

Just finishing building my Transition Spur that'll be an XC flier and should come in around 26/7lbs. Compared to my Orange Stage 5 with 150mm forks it's a feather weight but I wouldn't want to chuck it down some of the nonsense I do with the Orange! Same with my Pace HT, it's a heavy old thing but the grippy 2.6 tyres do a decent impression of rear suspension and I can happily crash it about without feeling beaten up. Smaller wheels and shorter rear stays make the Pace much more playful than the Orange which likes to keep it's wheels on the ground.
 
I forgot to mention the brakes: disc, very on / off compared to cantis, but they work very well and you get used to feathering them within about 3minutes.
Very much depends which brand. Shimano are very grabby where as Hope tend to give much more modulation.

As you mentioned earlier, last time I went to Dalby it was virtually the same as it had been 10 years earlier when I was riding 26" so very much designed in that era. IMO it doesn't really suit the trail bikes of today and is a bit of a slog.
 
In my opinion any ride where you ride down hill off road is enhanced by a dropper. I do a loop from home along the canal where the only time I use mine is when riding down the stairs by one of the locks. Totally worth it!

It's hard to explain and plenty won't agree but decent geometry, tyres and suspension are more important than weight for anything north of XC riding these days.
 
To bring together a few points:

The route I’m riding (Dalby Red) is long, (over 20 miles) and steep (600m in old money). This is sustained riding, not a lap round the park. So please be sure you can do that (now, not wayback) in order to be relevant.

The course is made of mostly single-track with a some gravel fire road: slow uphill, fast flat and down with unexpected drop offs. There are many sharp, bermy 180* hairpins, some of which are over rocks. There are about 3 really “gnarly” rock staircases that will try and tip you over. (2m rock drops not the stairs outside Tescos.)

Yes, bike geometery is everything, not just wheel size: but bigger-wheel bikes have longer wheelbases and wider turning circles. On the red run (which must have been laid down many years ago), the extra wheelbase of a 29er slows you down. Physics, not how far you might lean over the front, or the back ….

& for those of you who have got this far, let’s not forget that much of this course is uphill. 2 to 4 kg extra on the bike (especially if you are a bit out of shape 😉) makes a difference.

So. 10kg. 26” wheels (maybe 27 at the front!) Front suspension. Some gears.

😎
 
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