Will this Modern 6 Speed Shimano Rear Mech Derailleur run 8/9/10 speed

[JoeH]

Two questions.

1) Will the below derailleur run (index properly) 8 speed ok? or 9? or 10?

2) I can't help but think it's a bit of a cheap way to attach a derailleur - the hanger is inbuilt to the derailleur not the frame. I wonder if replacement derailleurs are available, or does one tend to buy a better frame when it goes wrong?

I'm thinking it'll run 8 ok, as a 6 speed chain is the same size (width) as 8. Another part of me remembers that most shimano derailleurs have the same pull ratio, but I'm not sure if that is affected by chain width. Finally I'm not sure about the quality of the derailluer and it's ability to cope with finer rear gear tolerances, i.e. more speeds.

 

[W7Ford]

1) Not sure, the derailleur will need to move further if the chain width is the same. It might be beyond its limits.
This might help:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_sp-ss.html#spacingk7
2) Yes, this setup is reserved for your cheap catalogue bikes in general. I had a similar rear mech back in the mid-late 90s on my Raleigh max, and assembled loads of them whilst working at Halfords in my student days. Replaceable mech hangers are a good indicator between a reasonable base bike and one that's going to be difficult to upgrade (certainly on mountain bikes at least). Unless there's a special reason for keeping it, you would probably find a more suitable base bike that already had an 8 or 9spd setup for £40 or £50 on Facebook marketplace.

Having said that, thsi does look to be steel framed, so its not prone to snapping mech hangers like an aluminium bike would be. You still find this setup on lower end touring bikes, higher end ones dont nessecarily have the scarifical hanger, but they do have a proper hanger built into the frame to attach a 8/9/10spd mech, rather than something integrated into the mech and axle mounted.

Is the cheaper steel frame for a purpose? I know sometimes people choose an older simpler setup for long distance touring in remote countries, the older budget tech being easier to find spares for and frames easy to repair with a stick welder.

I'd just give this one a service and enjoy it rather than trying to upgrade.

 

[W7Ford]

I dont know whereabouts you are, but local to me, there are a few bikes like this, that have the more modern 1 1/8th headset and will accept a 'normal' fit derailleur, this one looks like an altus on the rear. I also saw a 2004 Kona Fire Mountain with slicks for £50 recently if you dont mind a mountain bike geometry, not sure what your purpose for the bike is.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/392062815887369
6 and 7 speed are usually freewheels as part of the rear cog assembly, 8/9/10 are cassettes, where the freewheel assembly is part of the hub:

https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/determining-cassette-freewheel-type

 

[novocaine]

it might work, but it won't be great.

this is the better option.

https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/derai...gx2Q-mqKB9dr9yOnLxBoCxrkQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
ebay instead if it helps.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/19455696...oqpUq5FNi8aRKi4sVyKfPd6PLWmYzUiBoCLKsQAvD_BwE
now fit what ever you want.

side not, it wasn't that uncommon back in the day to see this style of frame.

 

[robfinger]

My first mountain bike and also the only frame I ever bought new long long ago has that style dropout for that style of derailleur. I eventually used an adapter piece like what novocaine shows there, except mine is welded to the frame to stiffen up the dropout. On the other side of the frame a disc brake mount adapter is welded on, along with some more welding to make sure the dropouts can handle the forces a disc will put on them. Modified Bomber up front, 27-spd drivetrain with Sram Rocket shifter and modern SLX rear mech, tubeless-ready Bontrager RaceDiscs, riser stem actually rated for e-bikes, Avid Elixir juice brakes - most ppl wouldn't care to go thru that much effort, but it's sentimental value to me. And that bike honestly puts a grin on my face every time I take it out

So if you like the frame buy TWO of those adapters (the one for the left-side dropout will make your life much easier when centering the wheel in place) and bolt them on and carry on with whatever modern (but non-boost obviously) drivetrain you want. I'd also suggest using a solid-axlec read hub, not a QR, again for ease of centering the wheel.

 

[JoeH]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/19455696...oqpUq5FNi8aRKi4sVyKfPd6PLWmYzUiBoCLKsQAvD_BwE
now fit what ever you want.

side not, it wasn't that uncommon back in the day to see this style of frame.

Will this bolt into the bolt hole on the frame? - where the little silver bolt is.
I'm not sure it will - and I don't fancy welding, ?glueing? or even drilling a hole to match..

 

[novocaine]

It passes through the drop out, on the back there is a shaped "nut" that pulls in to the slot. Its identical to the way you deraileur is fitted now. It will fit that frame fine. No welding needed.

 

[jimo746]

1) might work with 8-speed, probably not with 9 or 10.

2) yes it's a fitting method reserved for budget bikes generally. If the mech fails just replace it like for like.
I think you can get those type of hangers that let you fit a regular style bolt-on rear mech, which would open up your options a bit.

Or just turn it into a singlespeed bike

 

[robfinger]

Like novocaine said it all fits in the dropout slot, exactly how your current mech fits. No welding needed, I welded mine for more secure attachment of things, but it's absolutely NOT a required procedure in any way shape or form

Btw the singlespeed idea ain't bad if you wanna go that route eventually, those long slots combined with a half link (if it's even needed to begin with) make setting chain tension stupid easy.

 

[Woz]

Was my first thought too - a SS nirvana frame.