Whyte JW-2 shock removal advice please
- Thread starter The History Man
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Re: Need Weird Whyte JW/PRST buying advice prospective purchase
I shall start the search in earnest. Then less locally.
I shall start the search in earnest. Then less locally.
fotorat1
Retro Guru
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If you are 6 foot 3 then I would say scrap this idea - you will need a 410mm lay back post and even then you might be past the frames minimum insert.
I am 6 foot 1 and for me they are too short in the cockpit/wheelbase for serious MTB action.
I had a couple this year first a 19.5" (kept) and then a 21.5" (sold) (seat tube measurements) -
The 21.5" had exactly the same top tube length - which I was seriously pissed off by - as I thought it would have been longer - so I flogged it.
I kept the 19.5 and use a 90mm Stem and Thomson layback seat post. but I still feel like I am too far over the front end of the bike. great for climbing but a bit dangerous for anything else.
I guess I have been spoilt by cannondales XL frames that have a 24-25" top tubes.
But if you dont mind looking like you are a clown on a kids bike (as I do) - there is a lot to love about these bikes.
here is mine set up for me and I only have a 31" inside leg
Likes:
1 Front suspension is out of this world - small bump perfection and big hit bottomless feeling (with RP23)
2 Front end is very light - need to shift forward on steep climbs to keep the front wheel down.
3 Tight turning feels safe as the forks dont fold under, like telescopics do.
4 Rear shock stays clean in muddy conditions
5 With RP23s I dont get any pedal bob.
6 Can build up very light
7 Suspension inspires confidence and likes going fast - but I am always neverous about how far over the front wheel I am. I dont get this feeling at all on the XL Jekyll below (also from 2002) which can also take a intergrated dropper!
Dislikes
1 Top tube and wheelbase to short to feek stable at high speed
2 Front end has 9 pivot points so tracing any play is a PITA
3 Cable Stops probably impossible to source now (on the shock mounts)
4 Cant fit a big tire on the front (have to stick to old school low profile) - a 2.4 trail king would rub on the swivel bush nut
5 You cant buy a Front mud guard - nothing fits - and you need one to protect the front shock - I made my own out of a car inner wheel arch liner
6 Head angle is very steep - I would guess 71Deg, but the fork design means it is not as scary as a normal fork at this angle - but I would prefer slacker.
7 Seat tube is 30mm
8 Frames designed for Taiwanese body size.
This was my disapointing 21.5"
http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewto ... hilit=+jw2
I eventually had a DT swiss carbon shock on the front and XTR/SLR'd it and it was uber light 10KG with pedals!!!
So it depends what you want to do on yours - if you just want to build one and admire and do the occaisonal ride then go for it - but if you want to do 40 mile epics or events on it then I would look elsewhere....
If you are 6 foot 3 then I would say scrap this idea - you will need a 410mm lay back post and even then you might be past the frames minimum insert.
I am 6 foot 1 and for me they are too short in the cockpit/wheelbase for serious MTB action.
I had a couple this year first a 19.5" (kept) and then a 21.5" (sold) (seat tube measurements) -
The 21.5" had exactly the same top tube length - which I was seriously pissed off by - as I thought it would have been longer - so I flogged it.
I kept the 19.5 and use a 90mm Stem and Thomson layback seat post. but I still feel like I am too far over the front end of the bike. great for climbing but a bit dangerous for anything else.
I guess I have been spoilt by cannondales XL frames that have a 24-25" top tubes.
But if you dont mind looking like you are a clown on a kids bike (as I do) - there is a lot to love about these bikes.
here is mine set up for me and I only have a 31" inside leg
Likes:
1 Front suspension is out of this world - small bump perfection and big hit bottomless feeling (with RP23)
2 Front end is very light - need to shift forward on steep climbs to keep the front wheel down.
3 Tight turning feels safe as the forks dont fold under, like telescopics do.
4 Rear shock stays clean in muddy conditions
5 With RP23s I dont get any pedal bob.
6 Can build up very light
7 Suspension inspires confidence and likes going fast - but I am always neverous about how far over the front wheel I am. I dont get this feeling at all on the XL Jekyll below (also from 2002) which can also take a intergrated dropper!
Dislikes
1 Top tube and wheelbase to short to feek stable at high speed
2 Front end has 9 pivot points so tracing any play is a PITA
3 Cable Stops probably impossible to source now (on the shock mounts)
4 Cant fit a big tire on the front (have to stick to old school low profile) - a 2.4 trail king would rub on the swivel bush nut
5 You cant buy a Front mud guard - nothing fits - and you need one to protect the front shock - I made my own out of a car inner wheel arch liner
6 Head angle is very steep - I would guess 71Deg, but the fork design means it is not as scary as a normal fork at this angle - but I would prefer slacker.
7 Seat tube is 30mm
8 Frames designed for Taiwanese body size.
This was my disapointing 21.5"
http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewto ... hilit=+jw2
I eventually had a DT swiss carbon shock on the front and XTR/SLR'd it and it was uber light 10KG with pedals!!!
So it depends what you want to do on yours - if you just want to build one and admire and do the occaisonal ride then go for it - but if you want to do 40 mile epics or events on it then I would look elsewhere....
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Re: Need Weird Whyte JW/PRST buying advice prospective purchase
@fotorat
Interesting take on the size issue. I ride very upright but to bad back so short top tube would be fine. the seat tube is a worry though......
@fotorat
Interesting take on the size issue. I ride very upright but to bad back so short top tube would be fine. the seat tube is a worry though......
Hotwheels.
Old School Grand Master
Re: Need Weird Whyte JW/PRST buying advice prospective purchase
As you know I rode my PRST-4 at Mayhem last year and the ride was plush as always. I would think a medium with a decent post would be fine (I'm a leggy 6' 1") as mine is a good fit, or hang out for a large, either or. Before you posted the link I was going to say £500 is about right for a good specced one. The hierarchy was all down to the spec, mine is XT throughout and works great, although some were upgraded to Hope hubs and brakes. My friend recently bought a Hope braked model and they were crap, could have been the set up though. I don't like the look of the JW models with the tubular forks, but each to their own. They do come up for sale fairly regularly I've found so wait for the size and spec you decide on. The PRST-1 suffered from bad chain suck by all accounts, hence the change to elevated stays on the next models.
As you know I rode my PRST-4 at Mayhem last year and the ride was plush as always. I would think a medium with a decent post would be fine (I'm a leggy 6' 1") as mine is a good fit, or hang out for a large, either or. Before you posted the link I was going to say £500 is about right for a good specced one. The hierarchy was all down to the spec, mine is XT throughout and works great, although some were upgraded to Hope hubs and brakes. My friend recently bought a Hope braked model and they were crap, could have been the set up though. I don't like the look of the JW models with the tubular forks, but each to their own. They do come up for sale fairly regularly I've found so wait for the size and spec you decide on. The PRST-1 suffered from bad chain suck by all accounts, hence the change to elevated stays on the next models.
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I remember it well. It nearly came home with me. It’s your fault I want one!
I remember it well. It nearly came home with me. It’s your fault I want one!
fotorat1
Retro Guru
Re: Need Weird Whyte JW/PRST buying advice prospective purchase
also watch out on the early prst's as the front and rear drop outs are specific to the hubs so normal QR hubs wont fit - so if you buy a frame and fork - make sure the hubs (at least) are included. I dont think this is the case on the later bikes and certainly not on the JW2
also watch out on the early prst's as the front and rear drop outs are specific to the hubs so normal QR hubs wont fit - so if you buy a frame and fork - make sure the hubs (at least) are included. I dont think this is the case on the later bikes and certainly not on the JW2
Re: Need Weird Whyte JW/PRST buying advice prospective purchase
My early one (just frame in pieces at the mo) has the machined bobbins that are fitted onto any normal QR hub, held in place by a long bolt QR skewer. Whyte still sell this: https://whyte.bike/products/big-gripper ... sembly-kit
These are than clamped by the Big Gripper dropouts.
No special hubs needed, just need to make sure that you have the bobbins and (ideally) skewers.
All the best,
Code:
the early PRSTs as the front and rear drop outs are specific to the hubs so normal QR hubs wont fit - so if you buy a frame and forkThese are than clamped by the Big Gripper dropouts.
No special hubs needed, just need to make sure that you have the bobbins and (ideally) skewers.
All the best,
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Duxuk
Retro Guru
Re: Need Weird Whyte JW/PRST buying advice prospective purchase
I even converted a through axle wheel to fit my PRST4. I got some special end caps from my local bike shop and new bobbins and skewer from ATB sales. They only had rear so I cut the skewer and cut a new thread which I think was an M4.
The PRST always had the big grippers. They continued to use them on the "46". As I mentioned in my first post they definitely stiffen things up like a through axle does.
I even converted a through axle wheel to fit my PRST4. I got some special end caps from my local bike shop and new bobbins and skewer from ATB sales. They only had rear so I cut the skewer and cut a new thread which I think was an M4.
The PRST always had the big grippers. They continued to use them on the "46". As I mentioned in my first post they definitely stiffen things up like a through axle does.
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