What clear coat would you recommend?

[nunumumi]

Make sure you eliminated all the rust before spraying anything, because it WILL come through if you've not been thorough with it and then all the paint will flake off. I would honestly wait with clear coating until you've achieved a satisfactory finish. If you just coat the untreated surface, you'll end up with a mess.

 

[averagebiker]

What about a clear automotive lacquer?

Cheap and reliable.

Thanks. That was what I was originally thinking of. Not sure I need the complication of 2k.
Any particular brands worth looking out for or should I just head to Halfords and grab a can?

 

[Mickeyspinn]

Thanks. That was what I was originally thinking of. Not sure I need the complication of 2k.
Any particular brands worth looking out for or should I just head to Halfords and grab a can?

Anything but Halfords....
Automotive paint supplier will have as good as it gets in a can.
I've been using this .... It's about as tough as you'll get from a spray can.....really thin coats is the key.

 

[Tootyred]

Automotive is what we are talking about above.....2k is a different kettle of fish in terms of use and durability.

Lacquer is a type of clearcoat.....its not the only one....and it gets very confusing and there are entire forums dedicated to the pros and cons of different " clearcoat" systems.

Unfortunately if you go to halfords they are unlikely to have any idea about the difference .

And don't ask me its frankly a mine field when you start digging....im just a user and limit my pallet to what i know!

Lacquer can be natural shellac made from crushed beetles to poly modified space goo.....so read the can!

My suggestion would be to use a good brand....i stick to upol....its well known, readily available and reasonably cheap. They have a full system of everything from acid etch to paint cleaners. Halfords sell it, but its far cheaper on ebay. I buy my clearcoat 6 at a time as i get through it for myself and work/ craft projects.

https://u-pol.com/aerosols/premium-aerosols/
These are good quality and can all be bought off the shelf in halfords if you must!

I use is their more industrial version of above....Here

https://u-pol.com/aerosols/power-can-aerosols/
To be safe use the same brand as the paint...that way you g- tee nothing nasty will happen......well should!

Remember, your clearcoat won't solve everything, its just part of a system. Spraying at home is harder work as cans are not the best pattern or dispersal. But, with work you can sort that. Dont expect a perfect flat finish, add coats and cut out if you want it like glass.

I did a refinish of a frame here......it goes through taking a frame (plus imbelishments) from tired to sparkling.

Its work, but worth it.

https://www.retrobike.co.uk/threads/rocky-mountain-reloaded-finished.443531/

 

[Nabeaquam]

Gibbs penetrating oil. Hot rod standard coating in the USA. Won’t remove decals but it’s expensive. Thin wiped down coat ever 4 years is all that’s required. Won’t rust.

 

[jordic1968]

Does anyone have experience also with ceramic coating ? used in the car industry, now also being applied to furniture seems to provide protection against scratches...

 

[jordic1968]

let me insist about ceramic coatings, as I've got a new colnago super from the 70's I want to protect as much as possible. In the past I used wax, but now there are ceramic coatings widely used in the car industry, has anyone tried any ?

 

[novocaine]

let me insist about ceramic coatings, as I've got a new colnago super from the 70's I want to protect as much as possible. In the past I used wax, but now there are ceramic coatings widely used in the car industry, has anyone tried any ?

Yes.
They work on cars for a period of time. They aren't a clear coat they are a high durability "ceramic wax" they will need retouchinging. They won't stop chips, dents or deep scratches. They can be a bitch to apply.
Good ones are ******* expensive and really good ones can't be applied by normies like us.
Better off with a good canuba wax and apply routinely.

This is my opinion based on a doing my car as a test. Hidden water traps led to marking around the boot lid and some wipe marks on large flat surfaces due to curing time differences related to underlying paint condition (some burn through of clear coat).

 

[Tootyred]

As said above Ceramics are hard to apply. Temp range and humidity needs to be spot on. Several vehicles we worked on were done by a well respected guy we knew, but he's abandoned it now as its a pain, doesn't really last as long as the hype might have you believe and is expensive. He's gone back to good old high quality wax products.

 

[jordic1968]

Thanks for the feedback I understand problem can be to apply evenly on larger surfaces, but on a steel bike maybe it is easy ? I 've used carnuba wax based for a long time with very good results, although not very durable and also not fully rust protector on chips to bare metal. I'm fascinated with the brightness I could get from ceramic coating, and also rust protector (I've deep paint chips) ... I know a car detailing shop I've visited several times, I'll ask for their advice and maybe do some test, we'll see! Thanks again.