Stuck/fused pedals. What’s the solution?

LGF if you are talking about ‘removing pedal injuries’, you well know that there is a wealth of ways in which severe damage can be inflicted on the body. An old favourite is trying to release drive side pedals with the bike in the workstand, and not noticing that the moment the pedal thread releases its grip, your hand will be mangled by the large chainring. A classic and extremely body-adjusting one, and good for new combinations of existing expletives. An unusual one but governed by Murphy's Law is the ‘hand jammed between crank arm and chainstay’, where you don’t notice that the application of force on the non-drive side will, when the pedal thread gives, will send you LH fingers down to be jammed between crank and stay. The ‘head on top tube/handlebar...’ operates when you are standing over the bike, the pedal gives up unexpectedly, and down you go onto the bike.... Of course the many ways of creating injury and the and severity of welts, bruises and general mangling increases by the equation Force x stuckness - and is modified by the equation Force x stuckness x elaboration of the ineffective arrangement of tools used to try to release things.
 
LGF if you are talking about ‘removing pedal injuries’, you well know that there is a wealth of ways in which severe damage can be inflicted on the body.
I've worn thick leather welding gauntlets for some bike jobs for a long time, and removing pedals is one such job. Even more so when working on my car, because access and space is often limited, difficult, and awkward. Too many times I've lost skin from my knuckles when a spanner slips or something else suddenly gives way.
 
I admire and cringe at those wielding a lump hammer on a spanner near a bike; you could scratch the frame....and do much
worse if you are working on a glue bonded frame or coke-can wall thickness AL frame.

Taking the cranks off does ensure you will not whack the frame out of alignment, and like above is safer to work on.
 
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