Shimano Hyperdrive C singlespeed help

[coupi]

So I was planning on convertins my 1994 Kona Hahanna to single speed, but on inspection of the Shimano Hyperdrive C cranks/chainrings, they seem to be one almost 'sealed' unit, riveted on chainrings? Am I right, or just mistaken, as I can't get the arms off until I get a crank puller.

 

[legrandefromage]

the hahanhahahannhahana was the bottom of the range Kona so recieved the dodgy 1 piece crank treatment

cheap set 'o cranks off here will see you right

 

[coupi]

Thanks for confirming that! And here was me wanting to build this up on a budget!

Any idea what to go for/what to avoid? I'm preferably after something with either 104 or 130 BCD.

 

[legrandefromage]

Thanks for confirming that! And here was me wanting to build this up on a budget!

Any idea what to go for/what to avoid? I'm preferably after something with either 104 or 130 BCD.

I used BMX bits for my last and only SS build

Its all in the chainline

 

[coupi]

If only I had a spare set of cranks in the garage!

 

[DM]

I use "normal" square taper cranks on all of mine.
Meaning the 110mm spider, now referred to as "ATB" spacing, that came before those compact drive things.

Compared with a compact drivetrain, it has more teeth for the same gear ratio = more chain wrap, quieter, less chance of the chain jumping off & longer life. All of which are benefits for a singlespeed.

Somebody on here must have one going spare/ going cheeep!

 

[coupi]

I use "normal" square taper cranks on all of mine.
Meaning the 110mm spider, now referred to as "ATB" spacing, that came before those compact drive things.

Compared with a compact drivetrain, it has more teeth for the same gear ratio = more chain wrap,

I have little idea what that all means!

 

[DM]

I use "normal" square taper cranks on all of mine.
Meaning the 110mm spider, now referred to as "ATB" spacing, that came before those compact drive things.

Compared with a compact drivetrain, it has more teeth for the same gear ratio = more chain wrap,

I have little idea what that all means!

Don't worry about it.
Just buy any old crank on here as cheaply as possible.
Preferably with a middle chainring and some narrow chainring bolts.

 

[coupi]

Do you know if these arms will fit? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... K:MEWAX:IT And if they would, could I use the crank bolts from the crank I have?

 

[DM]

Not sure.
It's a track crank and I assumed you were singlespeeding a mountain bike frame?

Track frames have a narrower rear axle spacing and the chain stays are also closer together. So a track crank probably won't have much outward curve on the arms, as it doesn't need to clear wide tyres etc.

The straighter arms might sit too close inboard and hit your chainstays.

Most MTB chainring bolts are longer, as the same bolts are used to attach multiple chain rings. BMX or track chainring bolts are shorter and will do the job.

If you have some of the little spacer tubes for the chainring bolts, you might be able to use those to take up the extra space on the longer bolts.
You can also use the spacers to tweak your chain-line by a few mm.

Sorry for the lack of definite info: DIY SSing is very much "try it and see".

Try here:
http://www.hubjub.co.uk/etc/etc.htm#rb

And if you can't quite get the correct chain tension by removing 1 chain link, use a half-link:
http://www.hubjub.co.uk/etc/etc.htm#hl