Saw, pipe cutter - steerers…advice

2manyoranges

Old School Grand Master
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I quite like the dramatic tension of making the right decision when cutting a steerer to the ‘right’ length on a new fork. There are so many things to take into consideration te getting the cut in exactly the right place for both now and the future.

And then there’s HOW to make the cut

With carbon steerers offer no choices…it’s carbon saw, plus guide. Or no guide, when you find that the carbon saw blade doesn’t fit in the saw guide. Drat. Use old stem? Yep that sorts it.

But alloy…

You can use a hacksaw and sharpie pen and then work really carefully. Nice. Bit of oil, good new blade; if you mark carefully then careful cutting (rotating the fork in the vice) gets you a clean and 90deg cut.

And then you can use a guide - not an absolute guarantee of 90-ness but helps.

And then you can use a hug quality pipe cutter - I have a Ridgid No1 - top quality even though it’s older than I am.

B U T

Should I use a pipe cutter? I’m practised in using them on copper and steel pipe. But ‘some say’ that the rollers flare the pipe? really? The rollers nip the end and stop a lip, they don’t flare anything. Some say the rollers weaken the tubing - I can see that, if there is foreign matter on the rollers or you over-tighten whilst pulling the cutter.

Views?
 
Threadless...just keep it fairly neat.

threaded.....hacksaw.

I often use an old locknut, or top threaded but of a headset. Take that past your cut line so the top is on your mark. The hard metal will keep your blade straight/straighter/rer. When you wind it off afterwards it re aligns the thread.

Done.
 
On alloy and carbon I do my best with a hacksaw then use an old stem below the cut and dress the uneven steerer with a file in the case of alloy and an abrasive such as emery cloth (on a flat block) on carbon flush with the stem.

Carbon is going to be the next asbestos IMHO so a full face mask with decent particulate filters is a must. I then clean down all my tools and the fork to remove the dust.

I think by design pipe cutters will distort to some degree the pipe as they work by compression cutting rather than abrasion. Compressing carbon I think should be avoided!
 
Personally put some tape around the steerer for a guide, then work slow and gently with a hacksaw. For carbon I use a blunt hacksaw blade.

Then finish with files to de-burr inner and outer.
 
I usually stumble out the back door, wrapping the fork in a towel as I rest it on the worn down concrete steps. I use an old stem if I can find it, else I usually use a jubilee clip. I saw as quickly as I can, it's never straight, but it doesn't matter because the world is made of squiggly lines. Then I shout, loudly, as I cut it too short and begin self harming using a pizza cutter.

A pipe cutter is less hassle and cleaner. I'd prefer to use that on bars, steerers and seat posts. I doubt it'd drastically decrease the structural I integrity. It probably matters how expensive a cutter you used. I used one that'd barely make an indent on my purple member which was a depressing affair altogether. So use an expensive one.

The pizza cutter cut deep that night.
 
Pipe cutter every time here. The tool itself is probably 25 years old. Had it since new.
You do need to file around the top of the steerer afterwards, as it leaves a little bump that often makes the stem a tight fit, depending on the stem. I see a lot of crappy cut steerers, my pipe cutter makes a nice job every time.
 
I was told to get ones that were like 80 quid
...................

People lie.

Good thing my internment camps are nearly finished.
 
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