Rock Shox Judy Service question
- Thread starter Manitou HT
- Start date
Groundoggy
Retro Guru
If you rub your finger along the edge of the circlip one side should be a very sharp 90 degree angle. The other should be slightly rounded and not something that feels like it might cut your finger.
Rather than creating another thread I thought I would ask here.
I have stripped my judy sl down as per the above and everything looks good I think?
I stripped them down just to make sure the cartridge was okay and I think it is as there is some resistence in it and it looks clean. I take it they do only have one cartridge as the other leg is just a metal rod.
Do you think it is worth changing the oil whilst I have them stripped? If so what oil should I use?
Also how easy is it to fill the cartridge with oil, I have looked at the manual and it says to hit the rod with a mallet, is this all I do to remove the rod if so which end? Are there no clips holding thevrod or seals in place in the cartridge?
Finally what grease do I use for the elastomers and stanchions? Thanks asvyou can tell this is my first tme of stripping a set of shocks
I have stripped my judy sl down as per the above and everything looks good I think?
I stripped them down just to make sure the cartridge was okay and I think it is as there is some resistence in it and it looks clean. I take it they do only have one cartridge as the other leg is just a metal rod.
Do you think it is worth changing the oil whilst I have them stripped? If so what oil should I use?
Also how easy is it to fill the cartridge with oil, I have looked at the manual and it says to hit the rod with a mallet, is this all I do to remove the rod if so which end? Are there no clips holding thevrod or seals in place in the cartridge?
Finally what grease do I use for the elastomers and stanchions? Thanks asvyou can tell this is my first tme of stripping a set of shocks
I'm not sure about refilling the oil as I just bought a Risse cartridge. For the elastomers and stanchions, use teflon coated grease like Judy Butter or something like these. Remember to grease the bushings too.
http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id80.html
http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id80.html
spacehopper
Senior Retro Guru
- Feedback
- View
To change the oil in a damper cartridge you first need to remove the aluminium cap at the end, this should just slide off if you wiggle a fingernail in the gap between it and the damper cart.. (the end to work on here is NOT the one with the circlip on)
then push the damper rod through so that the shorter length of exposed shaft is at the end with the circlip on..
the next bit is the tricky bit.. you essentially use the damper rod to push the seal out.. you either need to use a press to push the damper rod onto the rubber seal at the end or it can be done by hitting the end of the damper rod (at the circlip end) with a hammer to push the seal out.
it can take quite a bit of force sometimes!
the seal will eventually work its way out and be followed by the contents of the damper cart.. so have a container ready to catch the oil! the damper assembly will now slide out of the cartridge.. make a note of what order bits come out, as there is usually a metal washer and rubber o ring loose from the shaft
wipe clean and inspect the damper internals.. and slide the damper back in, in the same order it all came out...
the carts are filled with 5wt oil.. but you can put either 2.5wt in for less damping or 7.5wt for more..
to refill.. carefully push the damper all the way back into the cart and then gradually fill with oil.. when it gets almost full cycle the damper a few times to remove any trapped air and then fill the cart to the brim..
the next step can get a bit messy..
you now need to slide the seal back on.. but as the cart is full you need to displace some of the oil to allow the seal to fit back in..
in order to allow some of the oil to escape i put a fairly thin but strongish (maybe 1mm) square shaped rubber band in between the seal and the silver damper shaft and then slide it down.. the rubber band creates a bit of a gap to allow the oil to seep out and create space for the seal as you push it back in and means there will be no air gap.
I generally work my way around the seal pushing down with a blunt ended object to work the seal back in..
once the end of the seal is flush with the end of the damper cartridge pull the rubber band out to reseal the cartridge.. slide the aluuminium cap back on and you are done!
disclaimer: the above is a guide only and i take no responsibility if you break your damper cart!
then push the damper rod through so that the shorter length of exposed shaft is at the end with the circlip on..
the next bit is the tricky bit.. you essentially use the damper rod to push the seal out.. you either need to use a press to push the damper rod onto the rubber seal at the end or it can be done by hitting the end of the damper rod (at the circlip end) with a hammer to push the seal out.
it can take quite a bit of force sometimes!
the seal will eventually work its way out and be followed by the contents of the damper cart.. so have a container ready to catch the oil! the damper assembly will now slide out of the cartridge.. make a note of what order bits come out, as there is usually a metal washer and rubber o ring loose from the shaft
wipe clean and inspect the damper internals.. and slide the damper back in, in the same order it all came out...
the carts are filled with 5wt oil.. but you can put either 2.5wt in for less damping or 7.5wt for more..
to refill.. carefully push the damper all the way back into the cart and then gradually fill with oil.. when it gets almost full cycle the damper a few times to remove any trapped air and then fill the cart to the brim..
the next step can get a bit messy..
you now need to slide the seal back on.. but as the cart is full you need to displace some of the oil to allow the seal to fit back in..
in order to allow some of the oil to escape i put a fairly thin but strongish (maybe 1mm) square shaped rubber band in between the seal and the silver damper shaft and then slide it down.. the rubber band creates a bit of a gap to allow the oil to seep out and create space for the seal as you push it back in and means there will be no air gap.
I generally work my way around the seal pushing down with a blunt ended object to work the seal back in..
once the end of the seal is flush with the end of the damper cartridge pull the rubber band out to reseal the cartridge.. slide the aluuminium cap back on and you are done!
disclaimer: the above is a guide only and i take no responsibility if you break your damper cart!
Thanks a lot for the detailed response.
Another question as i have managed to track down the service manual, what are Bushings and what should i look for - i am sure i cannot see anything other than the MCU stack and the cartridge but i dont know what too look for
Another question as i have managed to track down the service manual, what are Bushings and what should i look for - i am sure i cannot see anything other than the MCU stack and the cartridge but i dont know what too look for
spacehopper
Senior Retro Guru
- Feedback
- View
bushings are essentially the 'bearings' of the fork.. only made from solid material rather than ball bearings etc..
in a judy fork there are usually 2 in each leg..
one just below the wiper seal and one further down inside the leg..
(some people have added a second bushing inside then lower leg to make the fork stiffer)
the bushing is the lighter coloured bit just below the seal and grease on the inside of the fork leg in the above picture..
as the fork moves up and down over time the bushings wear as the fork tubes rub up and down on them.. which is accelerated by any dirt / grit ingress and lack of servicing to change the grease etc..
to check for wear:
with the fork on the bike and the wheel in apply the front brake and rock it back and forth.. if there is any clunking or rocking back and forth it could be worn bushings..
look for the fork brace moving seperatley to the crown
(it could also be a worn headset bearing or wobbly front brake when doing this test though..!)
or with the fork off the bike (make sure the brace bolts are done up to the correct torque) hold each fork leg in your hand and GENTLY push them towards each other a tiny bit and then back.. if you can feel any clunking here its almost certainly worn bushings..
the bushings are usually relativley cheap to buy... BUT! require special (and usually expensinve) tools to remove and replace correctly so its best done by a bikeshop (if you can find one that still has the right tools for a judy!)
in a judy fork there are usually 2 in each leg..
one just below the wiper seal and one further down inside the leg..
(some people have added a second bushing inside then lower leg to make the fork stiffer)
the bushing is the lighter coloured bit just below the seal and grease on the inside of the fork leg in the above picture..
as the fork moves up and down over time the bushings wear as the fork tubes rub up and down on them.. which is accelerated by any dirt / grit ingress and lack of servicing to change the grease etc..
to check for wear:
with the fork on the bike and the wheel in apply the front brake and rock it back and forth.. if there is any clunking or rocking back and forth it could be worn bushings..
look for the fork brace moving seperatley to the crown
(it could also be a worn headset bearing or wobbly front brake when doing this test though..!)
or with the fork off the bike (make sure the brace bolts are done up to the correct torque) hold each fork leg in your hand and GENTLY push them towards each other a tiny bit and then back.. if you can feel any clunking here its almost certainly worn bushings..
the bushings are usually relativley cheap to buy... BUT! require special (and usually expensinve) tools to remove and replace correctly so its best done by a bikeshop (if you can find one that still has the right tools for a judy!)
Thanks a lot, i had a look in the Judy and the bushings are as you say in the legs. It looks like i have two either side and the stanchion is a very good tight fit so hopefully they should be fine.
I just need to fill the cartridge with oil, once i have taken it apart, and hopefully all should be okay - fingers crossed as this is the part i am least looking forward to but i will hopefully pick the oil up over the weekend and some grease and get them lubed back together.
I just need to fill the cartridge with oil, once i have taken it apart, and hopefully all should be okay - fingers crossed as this is the part i am least looking forward to but i will hopefully pick the oil up over the weekend and some grease and get them lubed back together.
