Peugeot

Finally got some time to work on the PHX-10 this weekend. And it is a bit rough. So here are the pics of the bike mostly dismantled. Still have a few items to remove from the frame. Stronglight 45 cranks are rusty as hell, but can hopefully be rechromed. Frame has rear shifter mount brazed on the downtube. And front derailleur mount is brazed on the seat tube. IMG_2650[1].JPG IMG_2647[1].JPG IMG_2651[1].JPG IMG_2653[1].JPG IMG_2654[1].JPG IMG_2646[1].JPG IMG_2649[1].JPG

Mavic rims are also rough and not sure if they can be used. Pics are below.
 

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Additional pics of wheels and rear hub. Noticed that rear hub threads are worn down, so not sure if PO tried to put a non french threaded freewheel on the hub. Interesting is the fixed sprocket on the other side of the hub. It all fits in a 120mm. IMG_2642[1].JPG IMG_2641[1].JPG IMG_2644[1].JPG IMG_2643[1].JPG

Questions for the experts out there.
Should I be able to thread on a freewheel to chase the threads back to life?
Are the Mavic rims still usable?
And last question.
The frame is coated with all sorts of crap as it was stored in a machine shop for 45 years. It needs a degreasing and then what is the best way to remove the crust from the paint? I was thinking about using a very fine rubbing compound to do this and then a polishing compound. Will this work? TIA for your responses. Cheers, Peter
 
Just remembered another question. Can the cottered crank axle be replaced with a square taper axle without changing the cups? Was thinking of a period 49D crankset.
 
Most probably use 49D with existing cups, but pedal threads may be French which is slightly smaller than our 9/16 x 20.

Keith
 
Hi it's been a busy summer and while quite a since I've posted anything. So here is a quick update on the 1958 LX10 restoration project and the progress so far. I used a super fine automotive rubbing compound to clean up the paint, which is shiny once again and also to ensure the original decals were preserved as they were in good condition. Worked on the chrome on the fork and rear stays and it is shining once again although there is some small pitting here and there. So the frame is now ready to go, well almost. The last hurdle to reassembly is the bottom bracket. It is a Stronglight Competition with a cottered spindle. The 6 notch lock ring is seized. Have tried everything short of cutting it off. Hopefully a last resort. :>) Tried soaking it with both WD-40 and PB Blaster for multiple days. Still won't move. Tried a heatgun on the ring and freeze spray on the cup and still won't budge. Fortunately I was able to find an exact complete bottom bracket assembly so at least if I have to end up cutting the lock ring, there is a replacement. Has anyone run into this before and how did you end up getting it solved? Pics to follow. TIA
 
Additional pics of wheels and rear hub. Noticed that rear hub threads are worn down, so not sure if PO tried to put a non french threaded freewheel on the hub. Interesting is the fixed sprocket on the other side of the hub. It all fits in a 120mm. View attachment 552568View attachment 552569View attachment 552570View attachment 552571

Questions for the experts out there.
Should I be able to thread on a freewheel to chase the threads back to life?
Are the Mavic rims still usable?
And last question.
The frame is coated with all sorts of crap as it was stored in a machine shop for 45 years. It needs a degreasing and then what is the best way to remove the crust from the paint? I was thinking about using a very fine rubbing compound to do this and then a polishing compound. Will this work? TIA for your responses. Cheers, Peter
It's a 'flip-flop' hub (double-sprocket).
I use a quick spray and brush of alloy wheel cleaner, then rinse wit water, dry and polish with Autosol. For a true mirror finish round of with Brasso.
 
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