Need help with RTS GT 700 parts
- Thread starter SteveCar
- Start date
This would be a 96 RTS 3
I had one new in Ball burnished.
Before you spend any time or money - check very carefully around the BB area and rear pivot tabs. Most of them are cracked.
Forks are RST 171. Fairly low end so you may struggle to find any boots for them apart from buying a pair of full forks from eBay. Won’t be much at all.
I had one new in Ball burnished.
Before you spend any time or money - check very carefully around the BB area and rear pivot tabs. Most of them are cracked.
Forks are RST 171. Fairly low end so you may struggle to find any boots for them apart from buying a pair of full forks from eBay. Won’t be much at all.
SteveCar
Retro Newbie
I'm not sure what you mean by the "BB area" but if the blue arrow points to the rear tabs they are fine
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SteveCar
Retro Newbie
At first glance everything looks fine but I am completely stripping it down, cleaning, bearings lube etc.. so I'll check then. Mono shock rebuild kit is on the way. This is my only transportation so I'll be fixing whatever is wrong. I've had it 6 years and the only issue so far is the mono shock leaked. Thank you for informing me of what to check out.
SteveCar
Retro Newbie
Thank you for that link
Looks retry original and in decent shape. Even has the rear canti brake rocker and the fittings for the second bottle cage, which makes it usable for the task of fitting a bottle cage.
As said, forks aren't that great but you can buy some boots if you wanted:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/40429943...eEG02BlRb2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
If it were me, and I'm a big RTS fan, I'd buy some better forks. You'll need some with the canti brake bridge, I've got some spare rest mozo pro or manitou FS to and another set of manitou with a bridge if you wanted to consider an upgrade.
As also suggested, the area where the rocker mounts to the bottom bracket is an area that can crack at the welds. Another area to check is the rear pivots on the chain stay, another area known to crack if the bike hasn't been looked after.
Bearings wise, there aren't many, they are generally just in the rocker. They can be replaced. The rest of the pivot points are usually bushings. If these are worn, there may be play or creaking.
The exception is sometimes the main frame pivot. They can be bushings. They use something referred to as a top hat bushing. I may have one of the only sets of original ones on earth, but I could also be wrong. This area can also have bearings, I can't remember the name, but they have a centre that rotates rather like a ball joint. If you have these (you won't know unless you take the swing arm off and look inside), they can be replaced if needed. There's a small spacer sandwiched either side by a set of these bearings.
I might have pictures of all these bits somewhere.
Lastly, there's usually a threaded bearing on the end of the noleen shock, but some have a straight shaft.
Speaking of shock, these are pretty proprietary so hopefully yours works, is full of fluid and compresses and rebounds ok. You can check by removing it, then unwinding the spring preload collar until you can remove the spring retainer at the bottom. Pop the spring off and push/pull the damper in and out. There should be resistance on the stroke, if so, happy days. If not, it will need servicing. It has a nitrogen charge so best left to someone who knows what they are doing.
Good luck with the refurb. Happy to help with any info or advice, I've built many and still have 2, a team and another us built one which I've had converted to a disc rear and the rear pivots converted from bushings to bearings.
As said, forks aren't that great but you can buy some boots if you wanted:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/40429943...eEG02BlRb2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
If it were me, and I'm a big RTS fan, I'd buy some better forks. You'll need some with the canti brake bridge, I've got some spare rest mozo pro or manitou FS to and another set of manitou with a bridge if you wanted to consider an upgrade.
As also suggested, the area where the rocker mounts to the bottom bracket is an area that can crack at the welds. Another area to check is the rear pivots on the chain stay, another area known to crack if the bike hasn't been looked after.
Bearings wise, there aren't many, they are generally just in the rocker. They can be replaced. The rest of the pivot points are usually bushings. If these are worn, there may be play or creaking.
The exception is sometimes the main frame pivot. They can be bushings. They use something referred to as a top hat bushing. I may have one of the only sets of original ones on earth, but I could also be wrong. This area can also have bearings, I can't remember the name, but they have a centre that rotates rather like a ball joint. If you have these (you won't know unless you take the swing arm off and look inside), they can be replaced if needed. There's a small spacer sandwiched either side by a set of these bearings.
I might have pictures of all these bits somewhere.
Lastly, there's usually a threaded bearing on the end of the noleen shock, but some have a straight shaft.
Speaking of shock, these are pretty proprietary so hopefully yours works, is full of fluid and compresses and rebounds ok. You can check by removing it, then unwinding the spring preload collar until you can remove the spring retainer at the bottom. Pop the spring off and push/pull the damper in and out. There should be resistance on the stroke, if so, happy days. If not, it will need servicing. It has a nitrogen charge so best left to someone who knows what they are doing.
Good luck with the refurb. Happy to help with any info or advice, I've built many and still have 2, a team and another us built one which I've had converted to a disc rear and the rear pivots converted from bushings to bearings.
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SteveCar
Retro Newbie
Thank you for the link and suggestions. I have a Noleen rebuild kit coming soon so the mono will be fine, No one at Noleen told me about a nitrogen charge. It leaked fluid so that's what I'm putting back into it. I think. lol. It can't hold more than an ounce I'd think but no one answered that question at Noleen either.
I'll know more when I actually start taking everything off the frame.
Those boots look like they would work but no shipping to the US. I joined this site from a google search about the RTS 3, Not sure if there is a retro bike site here in the States
I wouldn't mind adding an original bottle carrier at one point and as for your offer of forks, ty, but again, i'm in the US
When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
SteveCar
Retro Newbie
Update 7/24/24.
I have the rebuild kit for the Noleen. I have the needle gauge for the nitrogen refill. I have a Tire shop who has the nitrogen so I'm all set except for the internal floating piston measurement. If after I release the nitrogen in the shock and carefully remove the internals can I use the position of the IFP as a reinstall measurement?
I have the rebuild kit for the Noleen. I have the needle gauge for the nitrogen refill. I have a Tire shop who has the nitrogen so I'm all set except for the internal floating piston measurement. If after I release the nitrogen in the shock and carefully remove the internals can I use the position of the IFP as a reinstall measurement?
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