Losing Weight - Single Speed

crud

Retrobike Rider
Feedback
View
I want to lose some extra weight off my modern SS commuter.

going to lose a brake (Hayes Nine Discs)

Which one would you lose, front or back? not really in traffic, mostly paved cycle paths

any ideas? :?
 
I would look at other ways of loosing weight rather than loosing a brake, I dont know how Dr S copes on his frankenshite with just the rear... :roll:

Have you weighed the brake lever/caliper and fixings ?
 
i used to use only a rear v . in 15 miles i never needed to brake so one on the front too was a waste of time . front is more efficient but it depends on your skill and reactions that time the child steps out 1foot from your front wheel

considered drilling your rims and using 24" tubes ? higher pressure in slicker tyres ?
 
Loose weight on your wheels,tyres and rims are the best place to start.

Brakes are one thing i would leave on. if your going anywhere near roads then the ability to take your hands off the bars to point where you would like to go is a good idea. Nevermind the ability to stop quickly when a numpty in a Van pulls out on you!! :roll:

I know you said you were on cycle paths but the day you brake from your routine is the day numpty driver will be waiting!!

Trust me i'm not an MP. ;)

Al, :D
 
Sithlord":3iu9pp4p said:
I would look at other ways of loosing weight rather than loosing a brake, I dont know how Dr S copes on his frankenshite with just the rear... :roll:

Have you weighed the brake lever/caliper and fixings ?


hmm its down to the bare bones already really, even removing all the eyelet bolts, wanted to remove parts to get as light as possible before spending money on replacement parts. its about 25lbs now.

think i will lose about 500g, which isnt to be sniffed at really

Name:HFX-9 HD
Built by:Hayes Disc Brakes
Price:n/a
Diameter:203 mm
Front And Rear Brakes Sold Separately:Yes
Weight (g):514 g
Available Colours:Black, Matte Gunmetal
Front/Rear Caliper:Universal
Cable/Hydraulic Lever:Hydraulic
Rotor Fitting:Center Lock
Braking System Includes:Levers
 
Loose weight on your wheels,tyres and rims are the best place to start.

Brakes are one thing i would leave on. if your going anywhere near roads then the ability to take your hands off the bars to point where you would like to go is a good idea. Nevermind the ability to stop quickly when a numpty in a Van pulls out on you!!

I agree ... :) I found recently by changing just the inner tubes,, I saved 240grams, and thats not just static weight , its the most important 'rotational' weight... ;)

Bolts/seatposts/stems/tyres are a really good place to loose loads of weight... but I would start at the wheel end, as this will make the biggest difference.. :)

Just my 2pennys worth... :)
 
the section of seatpost that lives inside the frame can be drilled and the headset starnut/expander can be removed once the stem is tight . a few grams saved there
 
25lb single speed! :shock: Blimey!!

my Surly is about 18 1/2 and it's running a sus fork at the mo'

I'm not running anything silly light either. Apart from the wheels.

Al, :D
 
Sithlord":q9k493t0 said:
Loose weight on your wheels,tyres and rims are the best place to start.

Brakes are one thing i would leave on. if your going anywhere near roads then the ability to take your hands off the bars to point where you would like to go is a good idea. Nevermind the ability to stop quickly when a numpty in a Van pulls out on you!!

I agree ... :) I found recently by changing just the inner tubes,, I saved 240grams, and thats not just static weight , its the most important 'rotational' weight... ;)

Bolts/seatposts/stems/tyres are a really good place to loose loads of weight... but I would start at the wheel end, as this will make the biggest difference.. :)

Just my 2pennys worth... :)

i did sort the wheel end early on, light weight tubes and slicks. il get a photo up and would welcome suggestions (ones that dont cost :LOL: )
 
Back
Top