Loose headset cups - Help?

matt24777

Senior Retro Guru
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Just went to fit the headset cups into my C16r frame to find they were loose as hell, they rattled in fact! :shock:

Took the frame to the LBS who tried other headsets in it and they all rattled :shock: :shock:

LBS reckon the fram has had some machining done as there is a small lip about 20mm in from either end of the headtube.

Using the verniers I get an ID of 30.2-30.3mm Headset measured 30.0mm.

Is there anything I can do with this frame? Or is it a scrapper???? :cry: :cry: :cry:
 
Try punching some dots with a centre punch on the part which actually goes in the frame. Will raise the metal around the dot. It may give enough grip then. That along with some loctite may see you right.
 
It was a 1" ISO 30.1mm and not 1" JIS which is 29.9mm ?

Not 100% but neither would give an interference fit with 30.3mm.

These frames would originally have had a Shimano headset, i presume this would have been JIS?

Try punching some dots with a centre punch on the part which actually goes in the frame. Will raise the metal around the dot. It may give enough grip then. That along with some loctite may see you right.

This may work, worth a try with a cheap headset, not sure i'd want to try it with a Chris King though. :?

I wondered about shimming it?
 
hmmm interesting idea.... This is the plastic stuff you mix up hot, and when it cools it goes hard?

How messy is it to use?
 
Clockwork

Clockworks were prone to head tubes "stretching", particularly if Suspension forks have been fitted and the bike ridden hard.
Bob Jacksons could fit you a new head tube, but wouldn't be a cheap option.
As previously mentioned, some headsets have much longer insertion cups than others, may be another option?
 
I'm currently experimenting with a skim of "Chemical Metal" around the inside of each end of the headtube, and have assembled the headset and forks while it was still wet. :?

I'm going to give it a couple of hours to go off then going to disassemble and see if this has worked....

if this doesn't work I may talk to my local machine shop and see if they would be able to run weld round the inside at both ends and ream it back out to the right size.

This is somewhat annoying as I sold my original C16r a few years ago, and it had a perfect headtube! :roll:
 
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