Giant Cadex CFM -Can you help me identify parts I need please?

[Peteinengland]

Hi Guys!

As per my first post, I'm restoring a Giant CFM-1 and CFM-3 that have been stored for 20 years intended now for light recreational use on public footpaths/trails, but its so long since I've been in the scene I'm now unsure exactly of what parts I have on the bikes, if there are updates applicable or whether its even worth it financially rather than replacing the bikes? I'm thinking need to address bearings/chains, hub cones, tyres etc first? Not fussed about prestige or weight of parts, just decent reliable brands at reasonable cost.

I have posted photos below to show parts, if anyone can help me with and info and the questions I have about parts I have now and what I need, it would be a massive help thanks!

CFM-1 (white frame) has

CRMO forks

Tioga avenger headset (notchy) but uncertain of size I needed to replace this (think its inch and 1 1/8?)

Zoom straight 155 gram bars and black stem - would like to raise the handlebar position as struggling to be comfortable now Im much older!!! but its a steep incline stem already - bars aere currently lower than seat - get inclined bars?

Bottom bracket splined recessed cups? (can I get a sealed one for this age bike?) not sure of model/spec or length needed to replace?

Shimano triple ring exage LX400 chainset, rear mech deore dx, deore xt front mech

Chain unknown - what is the size I would need to replace this?

Gripshift - works but needs setting up as jumps in some positions

Rigida DP22 V-rims 559x16, bronze, 26x1.5 presta Kenda tyres (replaced but now cracking) can I go wider on these rims? is it possible to change to schrader by drilling out rims or use adapters? As wanting for simplicity to carry one size tube/tyre for both bikes?

XENO fat orange front hub with shimano skewer, Shimano deore XT "parallax" rear hub

Shimano unknown cantilever brakes

CFM-3 (purple frame) has

CRMO forks

“Black Protec lp2 loose proof mechanism/ white top double lock by tien hsin” Headset

Easton EA50 straight bars and unknown stem

Bottom bracket splined recessed cups? stamped D-NL?

Suntour X-1 triple chainset with exage "mountain" rear mech, deore lx front

chain - unknown make and size?

Deore dx thumbshifters

Araya CD-7 rims Tyres Michelin country cross 26 x 1.95 schrader valves - unknown shimano hubs

Shimano Exage cantilever brakes

Thanks so much

Pete

 

[Peteinengland]

Am I in the correct forum or have done something wrong? Not had any replies lol!

 

[Elev12k]

Hi,

Both bikes are in the catalogues available in the Archive.
The CFM-1 originally came with full XTR m900.
1-1/8 headset
You can fit any bar with 25.4mm center section.
I think in combination with a LX400 chainset you need you need a 122mm square taper bottom bracket. For m900 113mm. Both still available.
8 speed chain. Still available.
You can fit wider tires on the DP22 rims. The frame does allow 2.1 inch without a problem. Possibly 2.3 or 2.5 also.
I would use the right innertube with the rim.

Good luck building!

My CFM-1 frame:

 

[Once A Hero]

This brochure covers the original build spec for the CFM-3 (sadly not in English) but hopefully may be of some use.
https://www.retrobike.co.uk/archive/1993-giant-cadex-catalogue.234/download
Not sure where the brochure for the earlier CFM-1 is located, but take guidance from the CFM-1 in the above as it's only a year different.

 

[Peteinengland]

Thanks!

Issue is they both built from parts bin from new so may not have the same spec as retail bikes. Im thinking I need an IG chain rather than HG. cheap on ebay but seems can be fakes unfortunately. Any other online retailers I can trust?

 

[ishaw]

As the bikes are reasonably complete, if they ain't broke, don't fix, especially based on your comment around budget and use.

Bearings would be a good place to start. If any are crunchy, it could be new parts time, if smooth but dry, clean and regrease should be all that's needed. This would be applicable to hubs, headset and bottom bracket.

Treat the bikes to new cable inners and outers. Costs relatively little and your shifting will benefit.

Wear to chain, rings and cassette would be next up. If any are pointy like sharks teeth or have excessive burring, they will need replacing, and likely the chain too.

Shifters and mechs should be easy to tell if they are in good shape or not. Mechs is all about play in the parallelogram and slop in the springs.

Everything else would be personal choice to change, like stem, bars, saddle etc.

Tyres would probably benefit from being replaced if they have any perishing or cracking.

To do some of the jobs you may need tools like cone spanners, crank and BB removal tools, chain tool etc.