ljamesb
Old School Hero
<<<WARNING>>> Extremely long weight weenie post. Practically NO BIKE PORN WHATSOEVER. Just information. <<<WARNING>>>
I Posted about a month ago about putting together a lightweight touring bike/commuter/do it all bike. Here's some info on how I managed to save 5.1kg total from my bike and bike touring kit for £210.
My goal was to lighten my bike (1994 Marin Pine Mountain) and my bike touring kit. I’m currently planning a couple of bike tours and other escapades so cost was a big factor. Wanted the biggest weight saving for the least money spent.
The bike already had Deore LX all over (brakes, gears, hubs, cranks, cogs etc). Had some lightweight Ritchey rims - about 400g and 415g each.
The bike now weighs 10.15kg or 22lbs 6oz. I hope to get this down to 9.5kg (Just under 21lbs) soon by changing out the seatpost, bottom bracket, pedals, brake levers, brakes and gear shifters.
The table in the image shows the items I bought, how much they cost and how much they weigh. Also includes the weight of the item they replaced and finally the cost-gram saved ratio. This is a very useful thing to keep in mind as it prevents you from spending money on lovely, but unecessary stuff like titanium screws and carbon bottle cages etc.
*should be eBay spyder plastic saddle, not platic
Here’s an explanation for each of the items
Here’s a list of the weights of some of the lightest components I found and some rough prices.
Finally here’s a couple of photos of my DIY panniers. They weigh 425 grams each (395 without correx baseplate). A fiber flare goes on one of them nicely by attaching to the two black straps on the side
One of the bags on the bike while it's in 750W electric bike mode :twisted: (this photo was taken before many of the changes were made to the bike)
Rear view
The bags were made from ortlieb plastic pannier parts from some donor bags. I bought 2 Alpkit 20L dry bags and some correx (estate agent sign stuff) from a local framing wholesaler. Cut two rectangular pieces 28cm wide (used some maths to calculate this width would give the largest volume inside the bags). The height is up to you, but must be at least 5cm higher than where you want the upper pannier clip to be. Next, round off the corners of these pieces using some scissors. These pieces form the backing of each pannier and will have the pannier clips screwed through them.
Next, cut two oval pieces of correx the same shape as the bottom of the dry bag. These pieces will form a base for the bag.
Wrap all along the edges of the correx pieces with duct/duck tape to protect the inside of the bag from sharp edges.
Then it’s just a case of putting the backing inside the bag and screwing the ortlieb plastic parts onto the bag (screw through bag material and correx backing). Tighten everything up, pop in the base correx piece and there you go.
It helps if you fill the bag up with a pillow or sleeping bag when assembling everything. To strengthen the parts where the ortlieb parts screw into the bag, I would recommend some stormsure tuff tape, or some iron-on nylon patches to reinforce these areas.
I Posted about a month ago about putting together a lightweight touring bike/commuter/do it all bike. Here's some info on how I managed to save 5.1kg total from my bike and bike touring kit for £210.
My goal was to lighten my bike (1994 Marin Pine Mountain) and my bike touring kit. I’m currently planning a couple of bike tours and other escapades so cost was a big factor. Wanted the biggest weight saving for the least money spent.
The bike already had Deore LX all over (brakes, gears, hubs, cranks, cogs etc). Had some lightweight Ritchey rims - about 400g and 415g each.
The bike now weighs 10.15kg or 22lbs 6oz. I hope to get this down to 9.5kg (Just under 21lbs) soon by changing out the seatpost, bottom bracket, pedals, brake levers, brakes and gear shifters.
The table in the image shows the items I bought, how much they cost and how much they weigh. Also includes the weight of the item they replaced and finally the cost-gram saved ratio. This is a very useful thing to keep in mind as it prevents you from spending money on lovely, but unecessary stuff like titanium screws and carbon bottle cages etc.
*should be eBay spyder plastic saddle, not platic
Here’s an explanation for each of the items
Here’s a list of the weights of some of the lightest components I found and some rough prices.
Finally here’s a couple of photos of my DIY panniers. They weigh 425 grams each (395 without correx baseplate). A fiber flare goes on one of them nicely by attaching to the two black straps on the side
One of the bags on the bike while it's in 750W electric bike mode :twisted: (this photo was taken before many of the changes were made to the bike)
Rear view
The bags were made from ortlieb plastic pannier parts from some donor bags. I bought 2 Alpkit 20L dry bags and some correx (estate agent sign stuff) from a local framing wholesaler. Cut two rectangular pieces 28cm wide (used some maths to calculate this width would give the largest volume inside the bags). The height is up to you, but must be at least 5cm higher than where you want the upper pannier clip to be. Next, round off the corners of these pieces using some scissors. These pieces form the backing of each pannier and will have the pannier clips screwed through them.
Next, cut two oval pieces of correx the same shape as the bottom of the dry bag. These pieces will form a base for the bag.
Wrap all along the edges of the correx pieces with duct/duck tape to protect the inside of the bag from sharp edges.
Then it’s just a case of putting the backing inside the bag and screwing the ortlieb plastic parts onto the bag (screw through bag material and correx backing). Tighten everything up, pop in the base correx piece and there you go.
It helps if you fill the bag up with a pillow or sleeping bag when assembling everything. To strengthen the parts where the ortlieb parts screw into the bag, I would recommend some stormsure tuff tape, or some iron-on nylon patches to reinforce these areas.
!
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