Drunk buying (again).......... Roberts dogs bolx
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Why not get a selection of spray cans from Aldi/Lidl and Boyes or go posh with proper spray cans...
Have a few drinks, keep off ebay and sit in front of the frame with the spray cans.
Get that turn of the 90s bike look.
*Remember to drink out of the correct cans.
Have a few drinks, keep off ebay and sit in front of the frame with the spray cans.
Get that turn of the 90s bike look.
*Remember to drink out of the correct cans.
TreaderSteve
Senior Retro Guru
Checking-in so I get to see progress. +1 for Montana Gold - quality pigments that have good coverage and for me goes on great with little orange-peel. Decals on then a 2K rattle-can lacquer that can be applied outdoors without killing yourself. A rock-hard and quality finish is achievable.
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I was pretty keen on a powder coat, cheap and durable with a painted rear but gold leaf looks easy and relatively cheap
Now for those that were interested
Frame number.... What do you see?
I see 931051 maybe
Prodigal Son
Senior Retro Guru
If it´s one gold pannel, sure. Just don´t make it a full gold bike. Actually one color powder coat seems a great idea: just like late 90s Ibis Mojos. Parts box build and hit the trails.
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Yeah, the old colour under the yellow was gold, a full gold bike can look good but I just don't fancy it on this.
I'm really edging towards the black gloss, gold up to the sleeved seat stays down to before the bottom bracket area emulating the standard paint job, gold decals ...maybe some gold rockshox Judy or mag forks, black stem, gold handlebars...
Follow on with some gold cabling from a previous abandoned project...
I'm interested in the gold leaf idea and can see it looks easy and relatively cheap to do, looks like spray adhesive, bang on the leaf as best you can, dab it with the wife's makeup brush until it's flat/stuck thenclearcoat the area...
Have I got that right @Tootyred ?
I'm really edging towards the black gloss, gold up to the sleeved seat stays down to before the bottom bracket area emulating the standard paint job, gold decals ...maybe some gold rockshox Judy or mag forks, black stem, gold handlebars...
Follow on with some gold cabling from a previous abandoned project...
I'm interested in the gold leaf idea and can see it looks easy and relatively cheap to do, looks like spray adhesive, bang on the leaf as best you can, dab it with the wife's makeup brush until it's flat/stuck thenclearcoat the area...
Have I got that right @Tootyred ?
No you need gold size to put it on in my experience. It needs to go on one hit and without getting glue on you, the rest of the leaf, anything else in a 30 mile radius.
Gold leaf is ridiculous thin....it basically will float way on a radiator current!
The size stays " open" (tacky) for various lengths of time depending on product. Glue wont work in my experience, because its wet. Size is essentially dry when you apply the gold. Wet glue will flood the leaf and it will ball together on the surface with other bits / get onto the gold / clog up the brush......generally end up with a bloody terrible mess!
Its not hard, but it is a skill and when you see professionals do it.....
You will need a very soft brush....i use makeup brushes......
It also needs a fair long time to dry out after fully, before you put clearcoat over it....light coat mist first, or you will dissolve the size!
With 3 coats of clear, mine handles stones etc, just like paint...so no problems.
Gold is either rose ( copper leaf) or normal ( brass) unless you want to push the boat out and get real gold! The advantage is real gold doesn't corrode and you can engine turn it or buff it to a smooth uniform finish......never done that, as we used fake stuff....even the silver is actually alluminium leaf!
Gold leaf is ridiculous thin....it basically will float way on a radiator current!
The size stays " open" (tacky) for various lengths of time depending on product. Glue wont work in my experience, because its wet. Size is essentially dry when you apply the gold. Wet glue will flood the leaf and it will ball together on the surface with other bits / get onto the gold / clog up the brush......generally end up with a bloody terrible mess!
Its not hard, but it is a skill and when you see professionals do it.....
You will need a very soft brush....i use makeup brushes......
It also needs a fair long time to dry out after fully, before you put clearcoat over it....light coat mist first, or you will dissolve the size!
With 3 coats of clear, mine handles stones etc, just like paint...so no problems.
Gold is either rose ( copper leaf) or normal ( brass) unless you want to push the boat out and get real gold! The advantage is real gold doesn't corrode and you can engine turn it or buff it to a smooth uniform finish......never done that, as we used fake stuff....even the silver is actually alluminium leaf!
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I had sheets and sheets of gold leaf, used to put it on electroscopes and after a while you gained the art of doing it, watching others was always fun.
No glue ever involved.
Golf leaf is good for filling into crack and relief.
Wouldn't want to do a bike, it's not a great finish unless you want bumpy or art a master of rad skillz.
Spray would give a better finish even if drunk in a dark room.
No glue ever involved.
Golf leaf is good for filling into crack and relief.
Wouldn't want to do a bike, it's not a great finish unless you want bumpy or art a master of rad skillz.
Spray would give a better finish even if drunk in a dark room.
