Bolt for bb cable guide?

I used a Ti brake rotor bolt.Perfect size with a nice flat profile/wide Torx head.M5 x 10 was long enough without a washer.You've just reminded me of how my M950 BB on my '98 Sworks had to be replaced under warranty as the bolt was a few mm too long and pushed the plastic sleeve up allowing water to pass the o rings. IMG_2125.JPG
 
It's just an M5 bolt you need.
I normally use stainless steel 9mm M5 button cap bolts to replace the stock bolts in most frames.
A disc rotor bolt would work but might be a bit too long depending on what BB you have fitted.

A socket cap bolt would also work but button caps look a bit neater in my opinion.
Loads of steel, ano alloy and titanium options if you search the internet.

Use copper slip on the threads to limit the chances of bi-metallic corrosion in your titanium threads. But always use copper slip whatever the material unless you like the challenge of drilling out seized in bolts.
May be opening a can of worms here but my old man brought me up on copper slip/waxoyl,big Leyland fan!Have personally found that copper slip is great for certain applications but by using it with certain metals (ally comes to mind,seen a lot of alloy car wheels seize on steel hubs where copperslip has been applied to mating surface ) you are introducing another metal which can increase electrolytic corrosion.If it's staying there a long while I'd use either plain grease or anti-galling grease for Ti,not a metal based grease.
Aluminium grease better for ally frames.I still use copperslip on brakes,it's good for the higher temperatures.
 
Good point on copper slip. I was using it as a generic term really. Pure metal based agents can indeed increase the chance of bimetallic seizing but most anti seize agents either metal or ceramic based have other chemical additives in them like graphite and molybdenum to make them fit for purpose.

I don't recommend using plain grease, especially lithium based grease as an anti-seize. White lithium grease dries out and turns to a sticky white soapy substance which is perfect for worsening the problem it was supposed to solve.
Grease can wash out relatively easily, especially when faced with the usual regime of aggressive jet washing that many bike are subjected to.
When the carrier medium in most anti seize products washes out you are still at least left with the chemical ingredients there to prevent seizing.

Interestingly, Finish line Ti-Prep is copper based.
 
Good point on copper slip. I was using it as a generic term really. Pure metal based agents can indeed increase the chance of bimetallic seizing but most anti seize agents either metal or ceramic based have other chemical additives in them like graphite and molybdenum to make them fit for purpose.

I don't recommend using plain grease, especially lithium based grease as an anti-seize. White lithium grease dries out and turns to a sticky white soapy substance which is perfect for worsening the problem it was supposed to solve.
Grease can wash out relatively easily, especially when faced with the usual regime of aggressive jet washing that many bike are subjected to.
When the carrier medium in most anti seize products washes out you are still at least left with the chemical ingredients there to prevent seizing.

Interestingly, Finish line Ti-Prep is copper based.
With you on the white grease.Used it in the 90’s,wasn’t impressed with the results.For general use I use a good quality EP2 grease,Morrisons (not the supermarket!).Bit thicker than lithium,nice n sticky,won’t wash out so easily.Similar to Mobil blue in texture.
As for the copper in Ti-prep,that’s interesting.Haven’t had my mits on a lot of Ti though so not really my area.
 
Any local fasteners shop will sell you 1 bolt, any head you like, if you need it shorter ( as it may be too long) just hacksaw it off and file the end. If its stainless you wont mess up the zinc plate!

Expect to pay 20p for the privilege of buying just 1 bolt.....ie they will over charge you!;)
 
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