Any RockShox gurus in?

[SouthCoastRetro]

Hello all,
I’d like to ask a couple of questions if I may, firstly, is it at all possible to up the travel on my 2014 RockShox Reba RL (29” model) from 100 to 120mm? I’ve seen there’s an air shaft available from amazon but I’m wondering if it will fit?
Secondly, are there any souls out there braver than I to fit said implement as I’m very much not brave enough or am I safer going to a specialist shop to get it done? I’d very much like to attempt it myself but I’m just not proficient enough plus I don’t have relevant tools/oils.
Thanks I’m advance for your advice/answers.

SCR.

 

[ishaw]

Re:

I think the answer is yes. Do your uppers have travel markings for 120? If so, it is just a case of removing the travel spacers from the top of the air side damper.

It's a simple job and you don't really need any special tools as such, just a long Allen key in the right size and a long/hollow socket in the right size. A plastic or rubber mallet and a drop of shock fluid are also needed. You might need circlip pliers but I think you can get away without them by pushing the air damper up to the top and removing it that way, if so, you don't even have to remove the lower legs.

 

[Dickyboy]

Ishaw - I'm assuming 2014 Reba's are solo air, in which case the OP will have to change the air shaft, they are not like the dual air ones where you can just add or remove spacers to alter travel.

 

[SouthCoastRetro]

Re:

Many thanks for getting back to me guys, so sorry I neglected to add that mine are the solo air version, ishaw I’m intrigued about removing the shaft through the top hence negating the need to remove the bottom legs?

 

[ishaw]

Re:

I've not worked on a solo air version, but have rebuilt plenty of dual air Reba and sids so bear that in mind. Also, I've always stripped them down completely so again, I could be wrong when I say.....

... You could do the following:

1. Let all the air out
2. Remove the air top cap from the crown (spanner required). I mean the full cap not just the dust cover.
3. Undo the bolt with an Allen key on the air side lower leg. Do not remove all the way yet, go a few turns.
4. With the Allen key still fitted, tap stoutly with rubber mallet.
5. Unscrew a bit more and repeat until you have freed the damper shaft from the lower leg (you'll feel it push into the leg).
6. Remove the Allen bolt and use something long and rod shaped to push the damper up through the upper leg and out through the top.

Reverse the process without the hammering to fit the new one. Grease the rubber seal on the new damper before fitting. Same for the o-ring on the top cap. It might be a faff lining up the new damper shaft with the seal head hole, and you'll want to be careful so as not to scratch the inside of the leg.

As I said, I've not tried this myself, and I'm not sure if the upper legs taper at all, which if they do, would prevent you from pushing the damper all the way out through the top.

Hopefully someone can confirm if this is viable.

If it isn't, removing the lower legs completely is simple, you just need to repeat steps 3-5 on the oil damper side, and remove the bolt, then slide the lower legs off.

Instead of step 6, you'll need some circlip pliers to remove the circlip holding the air side seal head in place, and once removed, slide out the air damper and fit the new one, replace the circlip and slide the lower legs back on.

Before refitting the lower legs,, I'd give the upper legs a wipe down/clean, add a bit of shock grease below the wiper seals (clean old grease away first) and drop some shock fluid onto the foam rings until nice and soaked.

Before you bolt the lowers back on, pour 5ccs of 10wt shock fluid through the bolt holes. Bolt back up (not too tight or you may damage the lower legs) and you should be good to go.

I need to do a similar job to a set of 26 inch Reba solo air forks myself, as I'm slotting on a set of 27.5 lowers. My theory is that as the 26 inch forks are 120mm travel, I'll have a set of 27.5 100mm travel Reba's afterwards, or at least that's what research suggests. If anyone knows for sure, I'm all ears.

 

[SouthCoastRetro]

Re:

I’d like to thank everyone for weighing in on this, ishaw especially, due to your super detailed run-through up there I’m going for it myself!
Just one quick question, do I HAVE to use RockShox 10wt oil? They do a 5wt but if 10 will make it more capable of handling my heftiness (6’ 8” 24 stone) then I’m more than happy with that. I’ve watched the MBR vid on the process more than once and am confident I can handle it. The most expensive part is the fork oil! The air shaft is only £21 from Amazon and even comes with circlip pliers!
Thanks again guys for giving me the info and more importantly the confidence to broaden my maintenance horizons.

This is why I love Retrobike!!

 

[ishaw]

Re:

I was going from memory on the fork oil weight, rs forks tend to need 10wt and 5wt but I forget which way round it is.

I don't use rs oil myself, there are plenty of alternatives out there. Motorbike shock oil is the same thing and cheaper. I think I bought some decent stuff via planet x which was pretty good value. Prior to that, and whilst I'm ashamed to admit it, Halfords has got me out of jail when I've had a fork apart and realised I'd not got enough fluid.

 

[SouthCoastRetro]

Re:

Well, thanks to all the fantastic input my forks are currently in a state of disassembly with a nice new longer air shaft fitted to them, I have got a pic of it but have no clue where hosts them now so you can post? Used to use Photobucket but obviously that’s gone south now.

Anyway, just editing for my fork oil to arrive (damned Amazon, it was supposed to arrive this morning!) then I can reassemble and attach my lowers then we’re all good! Really chuffed I attempted this job and thanks again to all who inputted.