And today I did......

[zigzag]

Interesting... the M730 cranks on the FAT are creaking worse than a Scooby Doo floorboard, wondering if it could be the alu SRP bolts stretching? Anyway, I'll try some steel bolts for the Drum so that hopefully only my squeaky brakes cause annoyance.

I've got HTII on the Pipedream, haven't had any hassle since I built it up last year. Truvativ GXP on the Haro, already had to replace driveside bearing after less than a year, and there is some play again... Not impressed, although wouldn't surprise me if I'm not installing/pre-loading correctly.

 

[mikee]

there was an article in mbuk a wee while ago ,comparing b/b's
a brief summary read along the lines of ,shimano outboard bearing b/b's
are getting better ,with life of the bearings up to almost 3 months 8/10
race face ones were a mix of some that last 6 weeks and others that
will last 6 months 8/10
shimano un52 sq/taper , this one was changed after 6 YEARS of use 4/10

:shock:

the cost was the other thing ,the square taper one being about a quarter
the price of the others

progress i guess

 

[velomaniac]

So what your saying is MBUK thinks modern bearings that last little time and cost the earth are better that a complete square taper UN52 cartridge BB :shock:

The BSO manufacturers are missing out on a lucrative market for crapo componentry, wonders never cease :roll:

 

[Dr S]

Aaron, SRP alloy bolts always creek. Trick is to get some copper slip on your tapers, torque up the arms with steel bolts to get them onto the taper nice and tight, then whip out the steel bolts and fit alloy bolts with plenty of copperslip. Don't over tighten them though!!

You could also stop being a tart and just use steel bolts like a real man.

 

[zigzag]

Aaron, SRP alloy bolts always creek. Trick is to get some copper slip on your tapers, torque up the arms with steel bolts to get them onto the taper nice and tight, then whip out the steel bolts and fit alloy bolts with plenty of copperslip. Don't over tighten them though!!

You could also stop being a tart and just use steel bolts like a real man.

Aha! Cheers Si!

In my defence, this was the weight weenie bike from the start of the year... And those green bolts are so luvverly.

 

[clockworkgazz]

Aaron, SRP alloy bolts always creek. Trick is to get some copper slip on your tapers, torque up the arms with steel bolts to get them onto the taper nice and tight, then whip out the steel bolts and fit alloy bolts with plenty of copperslip. Don't over tighten them though!!

You could also stop being a tart and just use steel bolts like a real man.

.......what he says HTFU!


Agree square taper rock.

 

[jimihendrix]

Agree square taper rock.

.........And creak

Pile of fudged cranks :roll: , may weld them into a sculpture or make a windchime for the garage

 

[big.eck]

Agree square taper rock.

.........And creak

Pile of fudged cranks :roll: , may weld them into a sculpture or make a windchime for the garage

if theres a good 170mm white industries drive-side arm in there i'd buy it off you mark or i have a nice non-drive side i'd sell you just to pair them up

 

[velomaniac]

Eck, I got a 175mm WI drive side with a seized ring bolt you can have for nowt

 

[RobMac]

Some thing else to add to the equation regarding B/B bearing life span, how square are the faces on the B/B shell, I wish I wasnt such a tight ass I'd buy the tool for re-facing/squaring up the B/B shell faces :?


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