26 " Spinergy Spox freehub body ?

MalcolmH

Retro Newbie
I have a pair of these (Spinergy Spox wheels) on my retro Kona Kula which is being serviced at the moment. The guy servicing them has said that there is a bit of play in the freehub when putting on my new XT 9 speed cassette. Finding it hard to source a new 9 speed freehub for this wheelset. Can anybody help ? Is the freehub specific to these wheels, or is it generic ?
 

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  • Spinergy wheels.JPG
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Hello there, MalcolmH,

Assuming that the ones in the picture are your wheels, yes, that model has specific freehubs,
The fitting to the hub was different to allow the fatter aluminium axle to fit through the cassette body.
However, they are serviceable, as they use cassette bearings inside the body:

-Undo the cones on the non-drive side.
-Tap the axle out towards the drive side. The outer bearing in the cassette body may come out with it.
-Knock out the non-drive side bearing to allow access from the non-drive side to the hollow retaining bolt in the back of the cassette body.
-Remove the bolt (M12 Allen key, RH thread) This will be very tight. Probably best to hold the AK in a vice and turn the wheel.
-Pull the body out of the hubshell splines, fit new bearings inside and out
-Reassemble.

If you do need to replace, the bodies are probably the same as one of the Novatec bodies which are also used by Fulcrum/Bontrager/Crank Bros etc. These have the hollow fixing bolt coming in from the inside of the hub, rather than outside, like Shimano ones.

Novated S G Types.png
Shimano Hyperglide pattern:
25798-00-d-40702 (Small).jpg


If the picture you posted is not your actual wheels, but a generic Spinergy pic, you may be in luck, as in all their other models, Spinergy used standard Shimano Hyperglide pattern cassette bodies
You can spot this from the ball bearings and a cone on the cassette side, with a steel axle, rather than the aluminium axle with a collar and grub screw in the model above.
On Shimano pattern bodies, remove all the axle parts and balls, then unscrew the cassette body with a 10mm Allen key on the hollow retaining bolt on the inside of the body.

Models as follows:
Mk1, carbon shell, steel axle, small flange on the non-drive side, Shimano HG pattern body:

Mk1 M2 Carbon Steel.jpg

Mk2, carbon (or aluminium) shell, steel axle, large machined flange on the non-drive side, Shimano HG pattern body:

Mk2 Carbon Steel.jpg

Mk3, Aluminium shell, aluminium axle, large machined flange on non-drive side, proprietary pattern body:

Mk3 AluminiumAluminium.jpg

And they reverted back to HG pattern on their later Roks XE: 6-spoke onto machined aluminium hub, steel axle, Shimano HG pattern body:

Roks XE Carbon Steel.jpg

All the best,
 
Wow !! Thanks so much Danson67. Such a comprehensive reply ! Far more in depth than I ever expected !
The pictures I posted were generic, but pretty sure they are the same as mine. I will be able to check for certain now with the info you provided.
I bought them about the turn of the century, so a good twenty years old at least.
You are a very knowledgeable chap !! Thanks again for priceless info and pics, must have taken you some time to put together.
Cheers, Malc.
 
20 years old...that's 'modern' around here 😁.

I have all 3 models, so can strip them down to get dimensions etc if needed.

All the best,
 
Hello there, MalcolmH,

Assuming that the ones in the picture are your wheels, yes, that model has specific freehubs,
The fitting to the hub was different to allow the fatter aluminium axle to fit through the cassette body.
However, they are serviceable, as they use cassette bearings inside the body:

-Undo the cones on the non-drive side.
-Tap the axle out towards the drive side. The outer bearing in the cassette body may come out with it.
-Knock out the non-drive side bearing to allow access from the non-drive side to the hollow retaining bolt in the back of the cassette body.
-Remove the bolt (M12 Allen key, RH thread) This will be very tight. Probably best to hold the AK in a vice and turn the wheel.
-Pull the body out of the hubshell splines, fit new bearings inside and out
-Reassemble.

If you do need to replace, the bodies are probably the same as one of the Novatec bodies which are also used by Fulcrum/Bontrager/Crank Bros etc. These have the hollow fixing bolt coming in from the inside of the hub, rather than outside, like Shimano ones.

View attachment 552057
Shimano Hyperglide pattern:
View attachment 552066


If the picture you posted is not your actual wheels, but a generic Spinergy pic, you may be in luck, as in all their other models, Spinergy used standard Shimano Hyperglide pattern cassette bodies
You can spot this from the ball bearings and a cone on the cassette side, with a steel axle, rather than the aluminium axle with a collar and grub screw in the model above.
On Shimano pattern bodies, remove all the axle parts and balls, then unscrew the cassette body with a 10mm Allen key on the hollow retaining bolt on the inside of the body.

Models as follows:
Mk1, carbon shell, steel axle, small flange on the non-drive side, Shimano HG pattern body:

View attachment 552058

Mk2, carbon (or aluminium) shell, steel axle, large machined flange on the non-drive side, Shimano HG pattern body:

View attachment 552059

Mk3, Aluminium shell, aluminium axle, large machined flange on non-drive side, proprietary pattern body:

View attachment 552060

And they reverted back to HG pattern on their later Roks XE: 6-spoke onto machined aluminium hub, steel axle, Shimano HG pattern body:

View attachment 552061

All the best,
Hi danson67, Thanks for the great writeup on the spinergy spox hub. I recently purchased a pair of spinergy spox MK3s and for the life of me I cannot get the 12mm allen bolt out from the non-drive side using a 12mm allen wrench with breaker bar turning counter clockwise. Have you come up with a trick to remove this stuck allen bolt? I even used PB blaster and let is sit over night. The ball bearings are making a lot of noise in the freehub body and I want to rebuild it or replace it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

danson67​

 
I haven't got my Mk3s to hand at the moment, but if you can give me a couple of days, I'll dig them up and see what we can do.

All the best,
 
I haven't got my Mk3s to hand at the moment, but if you can give me a couple of days, I'll dig them up and see what we can do.

All the best,
Thanks, I have been going at this for 3 days now and still cannot get that 12mm allen bolt out. From the little I can find on this freehub I am supposed to remove it turning the wrench counter-clockwise from the non drive side. Is that correct?
 
That's what I remember from servicing them before, but it was a long time ago.
There's a small chance that the bolt might be LH thread, so loosens clockwise?

All the best,
 
That's what I remember from servicing them before, but it was a long time ago.
There's a small chance that the bolt might be LH thread, so loosens clockwise?

All the best,
The freehub body is from a spinergy mk3 and I cannot find a new cassette body to replace it with (if I ever get it off) in the US. They seem to only be available in Europe. I believe mine is no good.
 
I have a rear Spox with a broken rim hanging as a decoration in my shop (in Canada). I can check the condition of the freehub and see if I can remove it if you need a replacement. I'll check to see which version the hub is.
 
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