1993 Kona Lava Dome 19" - too large?

[gorath23]

I've recently picked up a bike again after a 15 year hiatus - a 1993 Lava Dome in 19". I spent a long time researching sizing and came to the educated conclusion that at 6 foot and a 30-31" leg, I needed a 19". A few calculators and guides recommended going with 18" but predominantly, 19" was the accurate fit. Having now received my Lava Dome and taken it for a few rides, I'm acutely aware that it isn't remotely comfortable to ride (appalling Kona Racelight saddle aside). The riding position is a real stretch -literally! My arms are locked straight trying to reach the bars and due to my back being hunched over it puts my neck in an awkward position trying to look up. I set my saddle height first, ensuring that my legs were nearly straight when at the 6 o'clock position. Have I made a calculated error in going for a 19"? I can't even see that the 18" is going to be much better, given that the difference in top tube length is only 0.5 inches.

Any help/guidance?

 

[d8mok]

Re:

Shorter stem?

 

[gorath23]

Re: Re:

Shorter stem?

I have thought that I could fit the Velocity stem from one of the smaller Kona frame sizes (110mm vs 130mm)?

 

[Splatter Paint]

Re:

I’d say 19” is spot on. I’m 5’10” and ride 19” Konas.

The issue probably is the geometry from that year, my 1993 Explosif feels very racy, my 1990 Fire Mountain very upright and my 1997 Kahuna just the right balance.

Whilst you could swap to a shorter stem with more rise, the frame is still designed for a low front end, hunched over position. A different year bike might be the way to go if you can’t get comfortable.

 

[gradeAfailure]

Re:

Welcome (back) to old-school geometry..! You know how modern bikes don't use that geo anymore? Yeah, there's a reason for that..

But on the advice front - I have a Voodoo Wanga that's basically mid-90s Kona angles and I ran it with a 100mm stem and a 30mm rise 680mm riser bar and at 6' on a 19" it was spot on.

 

[Frankenorange]

You could try lowering the saddle from where it is at. The age old thing of setting a saddle so that when the crank is in line with the seat tube and your leg is straight is very much a starting point. You never know but you might find lowering the saddle feels better. If you lower it,say an inch, but keep the saddle fore/aft the same you will get a bit closer to the bars. You might find the lower saddle will feel slightly more comfortable.

I was a junior roadie, track and TTer back in the 80's and there were all sorts of golden rules to follow regarding setup and training. Half of us probably would have been enjoying it alot more if there hadn't been so many of these un-scientific things imposed on us back then.

Something to consider is age and injury/illness. I don't know how old or knackered you are but you might reqiire an odd setup that might freak out all of the internets etup/position experts to get comfortable.

As above.... a 19" kona could be ok with some teaking but maybe it isn't. There are no rules really.

F

 

[CassidyAce]

Re:

Aside from the good points above, there are a few others I would add, most of which are just commonsense really.

First, a 19" frame really means nothing more than a 19" seat tube: it's an important measurement but not especially informative on its own. Seat tube angle, for instance, will affect the reach to the handlebars too.

Second, top tube length is also important, but the angle of the top tube also makes a crucial difference (as does the length of the head tube) because it's not just the distance of the handlebars from the saddle that matters but how high or low the handlebars are relative to your seating position.

Third, to a degree, neck and back pain can be due to not having built up the relevant muscles and can ease with use (though, obviously, there are limits). It might take a bit of trial and error before you find your fit and what fits might not be what you originally hoped for.

Fourth, long, low and racey might look good but for your average middle-aged retrobiker, riding around your local woods . . . You're not going to win any races and the local squirrels aren't going to care what you look like so you might as well choose fun and comfort.

 

[mk one]

Re: Re:

I’d say 19” is spot on. I’m 5’10” and ride 19” Konas.

The issue probably is the geometry from that year, my 1993 Explosif feels very racy, my 1990 Fire Mountain very upright and my 1997 Kahuna just the right balance.

Whilst you could swap to a shorter stem with more rise, the frame is still designed for a low front end, hunched over position. A different year bike might be the way to go if you can’t get comfortable.

Pretty much this ^^^

Im also 5'10" but ride 18" Kona's. I currently have a '90, '93 and '96 built that i ride.

I would say the 19" is the right choice, the front on the '93 is low and long, purposeful.

Getting it to feel comfortable is down to what you want from the bike, you could raise the front with longer forks, newer P2's are longer, but this will affect the great ride. Not sure if you have layback post but a straight one will help a bit with reach.

Like above, later year models are more relaxed in comparison, also earlier.

Mark

 

[gorath23]

Re:

Thank you for all your help everyone. I'm going to play around with the setup of the bike and see whether I can get any more comfortable with it. I'm not too old (33) but I could probably do with building up some of those forgotten back muscles!

 

[My_Teenage_Self]

At 33, you may well be the youngest person on this goddam forum!