1990 16" Kona Cinder Cone. Mixture of fun parts.

[Skeelsie]

Frame: 1990 16” Kona Cindercone, Chromoly Double Butted

Fork: TB Project 2

Headset: Tange Passage 1” threaded steel.
Stem: Hand Polished Kalloy 130mm.
Handlebar: X-Lite Cross Country Riser Blue
Grips: Onza Ules Yellow
Barends: N/A

Brakes: Suntour XCD front and Suntour XCD SE pederson rear.
Brake Pads: Ritchey Logic.
Brake Cables: Shimano XTR
Cantilever cable hangers: Zoom
Brake Levers: Dia-Compe PC-7n Polished

Shifters: Gripshift SRT-600
Front Derailleur: Shimano XTR M960
Rear Derailleur: Shimano Deore 2007
Derailleur Cables: Wilkinsons own brand.
Cassette: 1990 Shimano XT 7 speed
Chain: KMC
Cranks: Shimano OEM none 2009 M442 (OEM 2009 Deore)
Crank Bolts: Shimano
Chainrings: Shimano
Chainring bolts: Shimano
Bottom Bracket: Shimano BB-ES25 Octalink
Pedals: DMR V12
Misc: Gripshift Bassworm, Polished Brodie Brake Booster, Onza Chill Pills, Shimano Deore XT Sharkfin.

Hub Skewers: X-Lite Titanium
Rims: Rigida Turbo 90
Hubs: Front Shimano XT - HB M730, Rear - Shimano XT - FH M732
Nipples: Alloy Unknown
Spokes: Stainless
Tyres: Onza Porcupine 2
Tubes: Decathlon Puncture magnets, two 4 £3!

Saddle: Selle Italia Flite Titanium.
Seatpost: ZOOM 26.4mm (Hsin Lung, OEM for many manufacturers)
Seatpost Binder: Odessey Svelte Ti seat binder

Weight: 26Lbs ish.


Frame and forks were less than £10 from ebay, the other bits were all added on a budget.


Revised image.

 

[Neil G]

That's quite cool, don't think there's anything wrong with making a bike 'your own'

 

[Anthony]

I think it looks nice aside from the cranks and the saddle. What's it like to ride? I've never tried such a huge stem as a 160, but basically you've turned a size 16 into the length of a size 19 roughly. In theory it ought to make it prefer to go straight rather than turn corners, but I've never been sure that's what people find in practice.

 

[Skeelsie]

The saddle is so because it was a girlfriend build originally, she can now have my Fire Mountain and i'll persevere getting this one right. Which means an early Flight Ti and the Kona A:/ and B:/ drive tyres will make their way onto it when I make the trip to my parents.

The stem sort or suits my, I'm 5 foot 8 ish with a short inside leg and relatively long upper body. Can't really gauge it until i've done a few more miles but 160mm is pretty long!!

The Deore cranks were £35 including, BB, Pedals and postage add to that the £10 Paypal voucher I had to use up they made great financial sense.


The only thing that concerns me is the amount of judder under braking, I know V's are more powerful than the original Cantis but they seem to be taking it out on the headset a little too much.

After giving it a proper ride I've discovered that the old bottom pull Alivio mech just can't provide enough movement for to get onto the large ring of the chainset, it's a steeper incline than before and although the chainline measures very close to that of the Suntour that was on there it just won't do it.

New chainsets and old mech's just won't work in this case, nay bother new front mech's are pennys if you don't need to go down the XT/XTR route.

 

[mamadirt]

Wow! I must admit when I saw the 'purists look away now' comment and the spec list I wasn't expecting to see such a cracking looking bike. Love it

 

[gray]

Love the multi-coloured zip ties holding on the shark fin - nice touch!

 

[bigdavevw]

thats quality

 

[Skeelsie]

Thanks for the nice comments, just won a Deore front mech for it so should be able clock up a bit more speed on it soon. :|


Also need to source a short (8mm or so) M8 bolt or hex for the gear cable guide on the underside of the BB, it's bodged on there present.

Have got some better pictures too but the camera is charging.

 

[raymondluxuryyacht]

Try Pro-bolt/tastynuts for an M8. Needn't be a fancy bolt, they do stainless steel as well as swanky stuff.

Is your headset adjusted right ? I've not had a problem with judder with v-brakes except on badly adjusted headsets or dodgy forks with too much flex. I suppose another cause might be wheel out of true ? Also might be worth checking the toe in of the brakes. I always stick a match stick or bit o card between the rear of the pad and the rim when setting up to ensure the front of the pad hits the rim first.

 

[Skeelsie]

Revised spec.

Flite, Onza Porcupine 2's, Wellgo Alloy pedals, Deore front mech and a Gripshift Bassworm added.