126mm rear hub help please.

[jlevo]

Hi all, I've got a 1982 stumpjumper that I'm building and looking for some pointers on a rear hub.

I'd like to put built it with m737 but unsure if you can convert on of those hubs to 130mm and squeeze it in?

Or would I be better with an alternative? Suggestions welcome on that front.

Appreciate I'm new here, thanks for having me

 

[MR OX]

I’d doubt it as 8 speed. I could be wrong. M730 or MT60 might be your best bet.
Hope you’re going to start a build thread?

 

[jlevo]

Here's the build thread @MR OX https://www.retrobike.co.uk/threads/1982-stumpjumper-build-thread.441611/

Better late than never!

 

[legrandefromage]

rear end could go to 135 for 8spd but you would need to square off the drop outs otherwise you will have the chain catching the dropouts

lots of washer placement, wheel dishing, beer, more beer and an afternoon with a spoke key

I have early Deore hubs with the Uniglide freehub body replaced with a later 8/9spd body - straight swap but beer and washers and spoke key involved and a 130mm frame

 

[jlevo]

rear end could go to 135 for 8spd but you would need to square off the drop outs otherwise you will have the chain catching the dropouts

lots of washer placement, wheel dishing, beer, more beer and an afternoon with a spoke key

I have early Deore hubs with the Uniglide freehub body replaced with a later 8/9spd body - straight swap but beer and washers and spoke key involved and a 130mm frame

When you say square off the dropouts, you mean realign them, right? I have a framebuilder who said he can do this for me

With the reallligned dropouts, are you saying it's unlikely a 135 wide rear wheel is sitting in the right place?

 

[jlevo]

Thanks for the thoughts too, @legrandefromage

 

[legrandefromage]

dishing, its all in the dishing

 

[elite504]

NOS M730 with the grease ports, in 130mm flavour, here:
https://bicyclist.cc/product/shimano-deore-xt-m732-rear-hub/

 

[Tootyred]

As lgf says, you can swap out the hub bodies onto old 130mm hubs and make them 8 speed.

Heres a 130 body i put a more modern 8 speed freehub on for a little project.

 

[Tootyred]

The dishing issue on an existing wheel is due to you essentially moving the flanges 5mm towards the non drive side as the 8 speed freehub is 5mm longer ( than a 7) to accommodate the extra sprockets.

It also effects the relative % tension of the spokes; using a 130 body over a 135 body (130 are 5mm shorter between the flanges) helps to remove some of this. It also helps to keep the cassette as close to the frame as you can get away with.....chain allowing!

As lgf says....beer and a spoke key and a stack of spacers.