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Hi scooter, yes it’s a snug fit, I just added the o-ring in a groove to take up any minute slack and protect the carbon steered a bit? Probably not even needed but I though why not, also the stem spacers compress the o-ring down so it’s really a very tight fit - main reason for going this route...

Update to this build, been a while! Ended up changing plans on the group set slightly as I found a long cage Shimano RX100 rear derailleur (mechanically the same as 1055 from what I've read, just a clear silver finish instead of the 2 tone grey painted) so have acquired the rest of the group...

Not much in the way of build updates, although have now added a carbon seat post, it’s a Ritchey one so matches the bars and stem, nice bit of kit. Doing C2C in April so just been trying to get some miles in, done about 1500k on this bike now, and really enjoy the way it rides, carbon fork and...

Of course this now means I have a stem and handlebars to fit with the ST-1055 shifters and put on the 501SL frame.....tbc!

Hey presto, fork and handlebars swapped, with a completely interchangeable system that means I can re-fit the chrome forks by just changing back to the top cup on the headset, will need a quill to ahead stem adaptor, but other than that it's just a case of undoing the stem and top cap and i can...

Step 4: Having satisfied myself that it all works, I unwrapped the old Nitto bars, took off the shifters - all the cables stayed attached to the shifters and bike, so just needed to re-fit them to the new bars and re-wrap the bar tape.

Step 3: Assemble the steerer with new 1" spacers and ahead stem like a normal threadless ahead system - the machined top cup now works like a normal threadless headset, just tension the headset bearings by tightening up the top cap into the fork bung. There's no difference in how this works...

Step 2: I wanted to make sure the new fork assembly worked before taking off all the bar tape and shifter sand swapping everything, just in case! So, took the old quill stem and top lock nut off, fitted a Tange lower fork crown race to the new fork, crown race on, then fitted the fork up into...

Step 1: Got hold of another 1" threaded Tange Levin headset upper race cup. I then used the lathe at work to turn the internal threads off to give a smooth inner diameter of 1 inch. I also turned a shallow groove around the top inner edge to accept a rubber O-ring.

Got a free morning to do the fork swap, so here goes... Have been cooking this idea up for a while, having got hold of a nearly new Columbus Minimal 1" fork, as I want to lose a bit of weight from the bike and also have the flexibility to swap stems and spacers etc to get my position tweaked...

Brief update, have sourced a SR Laprade fluted seatpost for the 501SL frame. Also got all the bits now for my fork conversion, so the plan is to 'upgrade' the 531c frame with the carbon fork, ahead stem and carbon handlebars (both Ritchey parts), i'll then use the Nitto stem and handlebars that...

Yep I have a spacer washer in, looks to all be correctly spaced and the top nut is not held off by the top of the steerer - i.e. it's pinching up on the spacer washer not bottoming out on the threads on the steerer first which I've had before - i think more than anything it was just some fairly...

We stayed in Lechlade-on-Thames and then rode out from there - Bibury/Upper Rissington/Burford/Faringdon, was a cracking weekend, some lovely villages and off the main roads was very quiet traffic wise. Great coffee/cafe in Lechlade - Lynwood & Co.

Not updated for a while, not much progress on either bike at the moment, spent the summer riding the built one. Did a weekend in the Cotswolds and did just over 200km in a couple of days, kept up with another 4 friends on Ali and Carbon bikes no problem (may have more to do with the riders than...

Taken delivery of first parts for this - got some decent condition 1055 STI levers, few small scrapes but overall pretty good nick for 30 years old, and should match the colour scheme of the frame quite nicely.

Checked the frame number also - looks like WP5001899, which would make this a November 1985 frame, so actually the same production year as my other bike, but the next 'Model Year' in terms of design/tube set/colour etc. Anyone know what the original spec would have been, or have a Raleigh 1986...

Had a chance to give the frame a quick once over, bit of a clean up, all looks pretty decent - few scratches to the paint and decals, but no real rust, not sure whether to try touching up the paint and replace on eor two of the worst affected decals, or leave as is as it's pretty honest and...

Agree that they're not the most aesthetically pleasing - no doubt nice aero brake levers with drilled levers and narrow hoods look better, but can't fault STI's for functionality and safety, and I never grew up riding bar end or downtube shifters, so I don't know what I'm missing! The first gen...

As ever, idle browsing turns into accidental bidding... Have ended up with another Raleigh Competition - the next model year so it's 1986/7 - need to check the frame number when I get it. It's Reynolds 501SL tubing, which I think means 501 main triangle, with lighter taper gauge stays, and has...

Only thing now is whether I go and slot or drill the chain rings, I really like the look of the slotted Shimano rings I've got on the 600 Crankset now, thinking I could go with some narrow slots, or 'Drillium' style with small holes all around the perimeter.