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I'd stop using that wire brush for sure

Yes absolutely I do, I am confident that technology has moved on in those 50 years. With the use of modern materials the bonded areas would be stronger than the rest of the frame. I think you must have heard of carbon fibre.

JSO

501 forks would be worth a few quid. 501 frame depends on the exact specs on the decal

He's stuck in the era of :LOL: evo-stik . Nowadays there is a technical bonding agent guaranteed for any use. Just needs a bit of research and work.

Well yeah baking 30 year old glue was never going to contribute to the restoration process. I watched the video before seeing this thread and I thought it was overkill and the frame looked fine before stripping it. Sheer wanton vandalism to get a few more clicks, which has been rather successful...

Just glue it back together. It'll be fine

Thanks OP for the notification just grabbed a couple. To qualify for £20 spend and free postage while I was in the shop I stuck an 8 speed microshift cassette under my hoodie as my 7 speed mountain bike is worn out but I do have some nice 8 speed shifters in da shed

No spanner needed thats why they made it a joke. Just bite it off with your teeth

Use a metal filled epoxy, lightweight body filler has no strength.

I'd build them up with a steel filled epoxy resin, then fit the wheel a bit further back where the metal's still good.

Won't that melt the brazing

The bike's too small, you need at least the next size bigger.

You could re-plan your route so you are ascending instead of descending. I wonder if a pressure change would make any difference. Perhaps lower would be better as the tendency to creep would be absorbed by flexing more.

Lots of spacers will allow for changes in plans, future uses. Too long is ok, too short is too short.

Those dents are nasty. Drill one or two holes 1/16" opposite, and knock them back somewhat then fill with epoxy. You need to reduce where the metal has swollen and risen up, which might be quite difficult

£60

Caustic soda will only work if the seatpost is made of aluminium. Just reaming would leave you with no lug wall. Get a long hacksaw blade and attach it to a wooden handle and approach the task slowly and carefully. To reform the seat lug support it properly and hammer it gently and gradually...

Modern road bikes typically have a sloping top tube and a long seat post allowing the manufacturer to save weight and costs in materials and fabrication, but most importantly to offer a smaller range of frame sizes. With these frames the important frame measurement is not a real physical one...

Looks like they copied Bianchi Celeste. I wonder if they bought too much only for it to resurface 15 years later on the Raleigh Montage mountain bike. So relieved the OP isn't going to repaint or smother in powder coat. Lovely as it is.