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Stolen from PinkBike's dirtfinder user, a poster of JT riding the bike (bar the Mag 20 forks), probably at the Australian Champs as talked previously:

Hurray! I wasn't dumb enough in the end. Though I still just don't understand how the missing O-rings found their way in the box of my outdoor light hardware 🤨. Anyway, for the interested people, they have 41mm I.D. with 2.4mm section.

Interesting as it's the same construction than the C9 tubes of the frame: aluminum core wrapped in carbon.

Simply classy! What's the seapost diameter? I'm wondering when John switched to the Tioga Carbo seatpost. Funily enough, he never switched to the Tioga Carbo handlebar and sticked with the DL2001 model. Don't know the reason. Weight penalty? Indeed, according to the 1992 Tioga Mountain Bike...

The silver solder gave me an idea: I've tried to fill the rubbing marks with tin drops. It doesn't work, the tin simply doesn't bond to the aluminum alloy. I bet that this is related to insufficient heating, but as advised earlier, I prefer not to heat up a 30-year old MTB part.

Was wondering if some steel epoxy would do the trick.

That's an option 😁

Agree about heating up an old aluminum fork.

Hi, I'm presently overhauling a Rock Shox Judy SL fork. Unfortunately, the previous owner let the brake lines rub along the fork crown. The crown being made of aluminum alloy, I was wondering if it's possible to braze of fill in the rubbing marks with something and then refinish the fork crown...

It was rather the V word in @novocaine answer that got me. I think I've already encountered it as V-cut. Is that the thing? And what exactly is a "V-cut"? How does it differ from a "normal" cut?

As you say, this kind of failure is pretty common on early aluminum. The later Scrambler Line models had reverse seat collars, an attempt at mitigating this issue?

Even in the outskirts of Paris where I'm now located, the historical framebuilders have closed doors long time ago. And I agree with you that working with aluminum requires a strong know-how. Moreover for a repair!

No idea why it cracked. The crack was probably there when I bought the bike, I've simply overlooked the most basic inspection. But persistent rumours BITD were that most of the Scrambler Lines built have broken. Giving Lapierre customer support headaches, as Lapierre was distributing Scrambler...

Dammit! And about drilling a tiny hole to stop the crack from propagating, is it a good idea? And then, if for cosmetic reasons, I fill in the drilled hole with metallic epoxy such as JB Weld (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Weld-8265S-Steel-Reinforced-Hardener/dp/B01MTR3OA2), will it have the same...

"Luckily" enough, the seat tube extends "quite a bit" above the top tube on this frame (random picture of an older MY with U-brake mounts):

Not enough room for that.

A first for me, it seems 😭 1990 Scrambler Line ATB (French framebuilder, as the name doesn't imply). Made of Aviatube (a Pechiney brand) 6106 aluminum alloy (not 6061, as e.g. Kein or Cannondale). Bought two years ago and just noticed the crack in the seat tube while cleaning up the frame...

Hi, I bought a pair of these thumbshifters to a fellow RBer years ago. But it was only today that I started cleaning and servicing them. The left shifter was really hard to shift so I disassembled it to have a look at what could be going wrong. Inside, there were grease residues but... no...

Thanks Tim; I still have to rebuild my RC-35 with the parts I bought you around few months ago (on the Bay) :-P Happy retirement.

What year was it?