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Managed to use the angle grinder and torch to start the mods on the frame today. Chopped the chainstays behind the bb and debrazed the dropouts from the seat stays. Also debrazed the gear cable routing from the downtube and bb shell and the brake cable guides from along the top tube as I will...

I’d take the chill pills please. Will pm.

I vote Syncros, Thomson are way ubiquitous and, imo, over rated.

Given the first blasting job opened up that hole and the state of the bb shell then I fully suspect they’ve blasted it with the pressure and media they’d use on a garden gate. If that’s the case then there might not be much frame left if you let them near it for a redo.

Haha, it should. Not been given any physio yet, fingers crossed it’s out of this cast and onto that kind of thing as of Thursday. I’ve also got a 2.35 Spesh Ground Control on the way to go with one I already have and a set of glow in the dark Ourys which definitely aren’t period correct but I...

Canny wield a hacksaw or file yet but the debit card ain’t too heavy! Seatpost and stem have arrived.

If your rims only have 0.3mm wall thickness I’d be changing them out ASAP! I suspect your internal width will be more like 16-18mm.

I have a Cyclus (not Cyclo!) headset press and have no complaints of it. The only thing the Park one at work has over it is the qr button on the bottom bit which is nice but not ‘5x the price’ nice. For removal I have a Park bit I fail to see how you’d really be able to cock up making one...

I’m 6’2 and made a (non folding) Raleigh Twenty work. The threading and stuff isn’t insurmountable but it’ll definitely help if you have your own taps and facing tools or are very friendly with someone that does. Average lbs would probably not be interested.

I think they are tension adjustments like the three holes in the frame/fork. They won’t be anything to do with lever pull ratio if that’s what you mean about the slr lever? I’d probably set them in the hole that’ll offer less tension and see how they work and go from there. The three holes in...

Not watched the video but I’m presuming it’s talking about the angles between the pivot, cable anchor, straddle cable and pass holder? I set up cantis using that method (different source) once and it maybe helped but I don’t think I’d be too hung up on angles.

Agree with @doctor-bond and others, ditch the fixed length straddle wire and get a good hanger (@bold stelvis says it himself, they only work if they are exactly the right length, a hanger and separate straddle cable can always be made to work). The bent plate hangers are alright but if you’re...

Very ‘semi’, the driveside had the outline of the full slot that’s on the nds but is largely filled in so there’s little to no actual adjustment in it. I did think I could just extend the slot and save myself some work but I think a conversion to track ends will be worthwhile.

Eesh, that sucks. I really have to commend the nhs, they sorted getting me in for surgery so quickly and looked after me really well when I was in.

Klunkrider’s 2023/24* Minihonzo. *Bought the frame in 2023, cut it up and made this in 2024.

My bid on the slingshot stem was accepted. I'll make a flat bar to go in it. How wide is wide enough but not obnoxiously so for a 1986 bike?

Yeah, thought it was fine at first, realised it was getting more and more painful as I rode the 9 miles back to the car and confirmed broken at minor injuries. At a follow up a week later they reckoned I’d buggered the ligament so surgery the next day. Get this cast off in 9 days and hoping they...

Cheers. Might be a slow burner to start with, you may have seen on lfgss that I had an unexpected coming together with the floor while out on the mini Honzo and am currently unable to do any metalwork.

Compontry-wise I have some Paul cantis A choice of two cranksets, both Stronglight. Some 49d or some 86bcd ones. Probably would need to make an adapter for the 49d as I don't think I'd find an outer chairing small enough (32 or 34t) I'd like either bullmoose bars or a bullmoose...

Purists gonna hate but I'll be removing all the brazeons related to gear cabling, changing the dropouts and probably adding a Konga yoke to increase tyre clearance. It looks like I could just de-braze the current dropouts and slide a track end into the slots that would leave in the stays but...