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Depending on the top tube diameter, Tektro makes clamp on cable stops https://www.ebay.com/itm/305827491778

@dubs has a really nice Manitou 3 for sale https://www.retrobike.co.uk/threads/clearout-pace-manitou-hope.492319/

Extremely doubtful it was made by Yeti. It bears none of the Yeti traits and all of the non-Yeti. It is cool...for someone who lives near the beach and wears Hawaiian shirts with flip-flops. I bet it worth a pair of Ringle cable hangers.

I’m not posting photos in JoniMarin’s thread out of etiquette, but here’s a link https://www.retrobike.co.uk/threads/sup’s-marin-hawk-hill-project.463284/ Hope you find as much enjoyment in yours, JoniMarin, as I do in mine.

That is by far the best livery Marin has delivered. That steel frame going to ride so nice. I have a similar build with new-ish 1x drivetrain. I’ve never wanted to ride a bike as much as this one.

Panes Con Pollo (Salvadoran - best chix sammich ever) and just started an afternoon ride with my son. Endless energy that kid is, we ride to a park, he plays, we ride to another park, he plays, we ride back to the first park, he plays, we ride home, he asks to go again. The goofy kid put on a...

Build both. The missus will be OK with it.

Did you check your derailleur hanger? Sounds like it's tweaked if you set the L endpoint and it's still over shifting.

They do look fabulous in the photos. Granted they are yours to do with as you please. If it were in my hands I would wax them and install as they are for fear of removing any anodized coating that remains, followed by a biannual PM of more waxing.

From what I see in the photos, I assume the current finish is the machined surface from the manufacturer. Have they been sanded or otherwise been abraded with wire wool or similar?

Most aluminum parts are anodized by the manufacturer. Anodizing creates a hard corrosion resistant coating. Polishing will remove that coating and leave the softer aluminum subject to oxidation and pitting. I suggest a good cleaning followed by a rub of pure carnauba automotive wax (not...

Got a broken spoke on the fav steel framed Marin, so the ol’ Zaskar got dusted off to navigate the urban jungle.

Beauty! The yellow cables really set it off! Really differentiates from "some dude with a nice bike" to "someone really took the time to make it special". FYI - a segment of this stuff will help protect the cable guide and the seatube from cable wear

ProFlex elastomers were very unique. The originals were a foam-like material, highly aerated, that allowed for almost 100% compression. Shock travel was almost equal to the entire height of the elastomer stack. The new replacements are solid elastomer which only offer a fraction of the...

Schwinn Thrasher https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00012M5MS?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1&th=1&psc=1

The most common cause of elastomer failure is exposure to petroleum-based lubricants. Once the polymer is exposed there’s really no going back. Heat may make the elastomer temporarily pliable, but it will never regain its springy quality.

Not uncommon to have the aluminum tab (where the ends of the rim are fused) come loose and rattle around. A gob of silicone adhesive to secure it is a common fix.

For starters, that's a very rare frame, perhaps so rare that a value will be hard to determine. Given that you are in [Europe], there is an overwhelming stigma that a retro bike frame is sized to fit an individual; ie the top tube must intersect the seattube immediately under the poop chute...