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Hi and welcome to retrobike. If you remove a brake caliper from the frame and split the two halfs sometimes there is a date clock stamped on the rear of them, year in the middle surrounded by the month of manufacture. Might be a later date if they have been upgraded at sometime. Hope this helps...

My 92 Kili is date stamped on the fork steerer tube you could drop it out and have a look. I know its probably date of manufacture of the fork but its a start. Some of the 92 Kilis cable guides were also on the side of the top tube. Looking forward to seeing some pics. And welcome.... just...

Another vote from me for LSN, they made a great job of my frame after a company in the same area made a c@ck of it.

If your sure of the shell size and your certain which chain set you going to use , you can look up the correct shaft length using Sheldon Browns database. sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html‎ Hope this is some use to you.

Thanks for the reply, I wish I'd seen it sooner :cry:

Hi cobby, could you tell me if the bike is still for sale. and if it is, what year it is. Ta.

I have the same problem but it only happens on treadmills, feels like somebody has jammed a knife trough my calf and I have to jump off, then the following few days I have trouble walking and climbing stairs without pain. I tried warming up and a power walk before turning up the pace a bit and...

PM sent.

I won't ignore anyone, thought I'd got a quick sale ..... panic over :)

Used pair of Chill Pills, slight scratch across graphic on one pill. I have tried to show it in the image, it is very small but I don't want anyone being disappointed if they buy them. Looking for £7.50 inc uk postage.

Used but not abused Stx Front Mech. Clamp size is 31.8 and cable entry is from the underside of the frame clamp coming up from the bottom bracket. Mech is in good condition with minimal wear on the push plates. I am looking for £9.50 inc uk postage.

Chainguard......... I,m upset to hear about the STX shifters, they were working when I took them off the bike.... sorry, I didn't know they had a fault. If we can arrange to meet up I will give you your money back. Porkypaw. :oops:

If you haven't got an adjustable reamer costing around £60 (I haven't :cry:) you could try this method which has worked fine for me in the past. Tear some emery cloth into 1 inch strips and spiral a strip up a piece of tube/bar long enough for you to use like a file. Secure the emery at both...

Chromed plastic ones with standard crank thread any use ? 1992 ish.

I have tried the vice method and ended up spliting the seat tube where the rear stays join. :cry: So I don't do that no more ....

Muppetman you've got problems but I think your still in with a chance. Yes I do try to saw all the way to the bottom of the seat tube then crush the post to free it from the frame, I guess I've always been lucky and not had a post stuck flush with the top off the frame. As a standard hacksaw...

Oooops forgot You'll need one of these.

I've wrecked frames in the past try to free stuck posts..... this is how I do them now. Take a bit of care, don't saw right down to the frame and then knock the sliver out......Easy :shock: .

Skull candy Full metal jackets are the best I've had, I got mine for £15 in anodized bronze. Other colours are dearer but I can't see me ears so bronze it was.

Thanks for telling me how to open the link, I'm not brilliant when it comes to computers. I was thinking it was the old type quill stem with the bolt down the centre. now I can see the image it looks around 6mm which would make the equivalent around a 1/4 inch. If it is a ally ahead stem I...