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Maybe this could work. At least it wouldn't cost an arm and a leg to give it a try. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hygear-Suspens ... SwQXxcjifC

I'm afraid that valve is properly "forked"... You will need to salvage a part from some old Englund total air cartridge. There are single valve units available for automotive suspension applications (Oehlins for example) but I'm afraid the thread and taper on the un-broken part are different...

Re: Managed to find the headset. Attached are some pics. As you can see I modified the top-cap from its original state (machined off some material to fit in a custom modified Girvin fork upper). The bearings should still work though.

I'll search for the parts this weekend and send you some pics.

I'll give it to you for free if you pay the postage. Let me dig out the parts and send you some pics.

I might have a used one knocking about somewhere in my bike bits boxes. If that would work for you?

As far as I remember they were using an Englund Total Air air spring assembly (same as the RST Mozo forks or Rock Shox Judy or Manitou 3 aftermarket). Maybe the O-rings from those could work in yours...

Those forks have "Englund Total Air" cartridges. They used to make those as aftermarket drop-in upgrade for many of that era's popular forks (I have a couple for Manitou 3's and 4's but they were also offered for RS Judy and Indy. Look up Englund Total Air conversions if you're interested.

When it comes down to bond strength the surface prep is way more important than grooves (threads in this case). When bonding metals in professional industrial applications the surface prep is paramount. Usually they use a special etching kit that peps the surfaces at the microscopic level (much...

If you use a proper industrial strength epoxy adhesive the gap between the two parts makes sense. I would suggest "Loctite Hysol 9430" (has one the highest shear and peel strength off all the commercially available adhesives out there). This adhesive requires a ca. 0.25 mm radial gap between the...

Re: I do have a set of V-brakes and matching levers that i would be willing to part with. I am located in the US (don't know if that's a problem).

107mm will be the correct BB spindle length for the Syncros alloy forged cranks.

Interesting idea... the main hurdle I would see is the fact that whilst you could find an old 28mm stanchion double crown assembly, Manitou had changed their approach to bushings from Manitou4 to Mach5 so the bushings interface between a newer dual crown upper stanchion assembly and the old...

One thing that happens to me sometimes is: the valve de-laminates from the rubber at the valve seat. The tube itself is intact but the inner tube is loosing lots of air at the valve connection. It's quite annoying since this kind of failure cannot be patched.

Re: 1"threaded Manitou 3 crown I do have one lying about... How long of a steerer? (mine's rather short). Oh, and I'm in the States...so shipping is not as easy.

They're basically a modern titanium version of the Sweet Wings cranks. Very tasty indeed!

I did go that way. Needed the two fork braces for a Nuke Proof Reactor front end machined in order to complete the bike. Got some measurements and detail shots from a fellow RB member: gis_guru, then I went into CAD and built the braces (luckily at that time I had access to a 3-d printer) so I...

That is a Dan/Ed crank-set from the mid 90's. Mombat used to have a couple of those for sale (unfortunately without the matching BB which makes them kind of pointless). Btw. the Tune Fastfoot Sixpack crank also had a hexagonal BB spindle (but those came a little bit later).

It's not that unusual to paint Titanium frames. The most notable manufacturer to do that is Serotta. Sometimes the customers like some color... usually the rear seat-stays are left bare titanium.

That won't work. Clamping the adapters below the aluminum surface will put your brake studs too low compared to a 26" rim brake surface. Unfortunately those aluminum shells are positioned just at the right height for the brake mounts.