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For the disc side spacer the end to end including the step is 20.0mm, the step is 0.2mm. OD at frame end is 19mm, OD at the hub end is 27.7mm. ID of the spacer is bang on 12.0mm which means any clearance is on the axle side. Measuring a few different 12mm frame axles they seem to vary between...

The very last pre-5th frames got the updated head tube. Pretty much everyone I knew racing them back then had a bit of coke can pressed in with lower cup to take up the gap. I can't remember when ISCG arrived exactly but it was sometime around '01 IIRC. I ordered a CK Steelset for my '02 frame...

Not that I recall, other than I remember the original (M735 IIRC) top swing, top pull one really didn't work well on my 14.5" Trek back in the day because of the angle the cable came in at. Is the BB length definitely right for the crank? I do remember they were quite fussy because of the arc...

Simply trying to help, and a pic would identify the part better - I've got a box with perhaps ten XT mechs in it and there are numerous changes between the various types despite all being from the same version of XT. There were top pull and bottom pull versions and, IIRC, both top swing and...

Yes, 44 outer ring was an option. And there were quite a few versions of the front mech - do you have a pic of which one you've got?

No worries. Aluminium spanners are the way to go ideally but I've never seen headset spanners like that and they'd not be very good anyway as they tend to be much fatter jaws. I've got a few sets of those for tightening the aluminium hose fittings on the rally cars. The plastic bag trick is a...

Did you share the link to the retro Specialized FB page? If so, I owe you! They only had one left sadly otherwise I'd have bought quite a few, but that one is going on an NOS Hope Fatso for one of my old Treks so thank you very much for the link.

I can't help with your other questions but to avoid marking you can use a plastic freezer bag or such like (not those piss thin sandwich bags), or workshop blue roll. I'd avoid an adjustable though, they always open out slightly which then puts too much stress on the corners of the nut/hex and...

Interesting that Leigh's bike is yet another variation of swingarm + pivot design!

Yeah, stock was 400lb and at 75kg-ish I was running 400-450lb (lighter on smoother tracks like Inners etc, heavier on Fort William/Rheola/Bala etc), and I was relatively smooth! Didn't stop me snapping many sets of seat stays and cracking a set of chainstays though. Which era of decals did you...

A 150mm hub axle in a 135mm frame won't work without extensive machining as the outer bearing is in the same place relative to the frame as on the narrower hub, so if you stick the wider axle in the narrower hub the bearing support will be 15mm too far out (basically touching the dropout). It's...

Thought this may be interesting for you. I found it when looking for stuff on the other thread but didn't want to derail it:

It may well be in there, but it doesn't conform to the later decoding that's for sure; my frame is AM22**, so A (M1), M (Medium), Feb '02, plus the frame number. The thing with intense is that they made things in small batches which is good because they could change things easily, and they did...

I see lots of people quoting ways to decode Intense frame numbers but none seem to match the earlier pre-FSR frames as they don't follow the same format, usually being like yours as an S with multiple digits after that don't coincide with years or anything else. Basically, it's an Intense M1...

I suspect the bearing supports on the axle will be in the wrong place unless you're planning on machining them down to the correct locations too. If it's the black spacer, part 6 in the above diagram, then I can stick the verniers on the one I've got on the Trek. Machining that up would, IMO, be...

Apologies @bhill22, I didn't get any notifications for this thread so missed your postings. I've actually sourced a front sport which'll do the trick, but thanks for your suggestions/offers.

Is this for a 6 bolt or 5 bolt hub, and is it the drive or disc side (or both?)? I'll be honest that the end cap in your post there doesn't look like any Bulb spacer I can remember. The disc side was loose and black anodised but with only a 0.5mm or so step to preload the bearing, nothing like...

You're an utter geek and it's bloody brilliant! As someone who's dabbled in various model making genres over the years with very little scratch building, because it's bloody hard work, I can well respect the amount of effort that's gone into this. Awesome.

Looking at the article I found it references the 22mm main pivot bearing (i.e your red frame) as '97. Tomac ran a proto 35mm main pivot (i.e the black one) during the '97 season which became the spec for '98. I reckon you've got a '97 frame there (I thought they switched to the larger chainstays...

2000/2001 were FSR with the Fox Vanilla RC shock. Visually they were similar to the later 5th shocked bikes but the front end was actually pretty different up close/side by side. The previous gen single pivot/linkage driven shock bikes like your one there seemed to go through a lot of changes...