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My xtr m970 freehub has crapped out (bearing cup cracked), so I need a new freehub, or just the bearing cup. Happy to buy just the bearing cup (!), freehub or whole rear hub, even if the parts are defective in some other way, as long as the bearing cup is serviceable. Compatible freehubs are...

Re: Unless you're really set on steel, I would recommend the Bontrager Titec titanium bars like the ones that came on some mid-90s Konas. Because it relies on a spacer instead of increasing diameter at the stem area, and because it's Ti, it feels like a noodle in my experience. Diameter, wall...

Outside the supermarket. Deore DX components. Maybe the Bridgestone experts can chime in on the model, vintage and worth.

Re: Seat clamp diameter is 30.0mm. The rest of the tube is 28.6mm until it ovalises.

Toothpaste is the poor man's brasso. Leaves you rims smelling fresh too.

Re: Agree with everything you've said, but... E-bikes are putting people on bikes who would not otherwise ride. Even if it takes people off public transport and clogs up cycle lanes, it is still a plus for cycling and the environment imho, just for exposing more people to cycling and getting...

Re: What size in terms of teeth is the bash guard?

Anybody know anything about this rim? There's not much to go on. They are welded and are 28 hole. This is the xc version and there is also a wider dh version. They are sometimes called "factory xc". One interesting feature is they have a tiny lip protruding out from the top edge of the rim...

Probably not what you were looking for... Bizango, Hope hubs, CK headset, and electric motor, AUD3000 :facepalm: :lol: Currently for sale (got nothing to do with me, honest!): https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/townsvi ... 1251648798

Bearings come in different grades (out of roundness). It's unlikely to cause "grinding", but could you have bought very low grade bearings or low grade race? The cheaper they are, the harder it is to tension it to prevent grinding. Also, I assume you haven't over tightened the top cap?

I've got a CK headset and it's worked flawlessly, but I wouldn't buy it again. It is not self-centreing and relies on very tight tolerances. This means that the head tube needs to be perfectly square. Also, cleaning, repacking and replacing bearings is a pain compared to other headsets (and yes...

4mm diameter.

Re: All sorted. Thanks.

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

There's a place for museum pieces, but this old Explosif isn't one of them. It's got the dreaded top tube ding from a previous owner and the dropout had to be replaced because it snapped, common to this particular model. And I filed off a guide :D and the frame rides better for it. Each scar...

Well, it looks like Pro Bolt charge almost as much for their postage ($15) and its domestic!!! :evil: But I've found that you can get pretty much find the same thing on ebay if you search for "m5 screen bolt", which is a motorbike part. The parts are cheaper and they don't charge bullsh!t...

You mean like this? Been there. Done that. :shock: :lol: Don't worry. There was a reason to the madness. It kept catching and tearing my shorts when I was out of the saddle. This frame's a keeper, so I'm not worried about resale value. :)

:lol: Retrobike sacrilege! And I thought I was naughty... But I am contemplating a custom solution :wink:

You're right. I don't need outers. All parts correct and accounted for. It's just personal preference. It allows me to run a straighter route and I think less maintenance. I will admit it won't look as neat or "proper" (although later Konas went with the top tube route), no matter what...

Re: :shock: How did I miss that :oops: !? Solved. :D Thanks, guys.