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Well done on making your diy 'Shimano' tool ! There is not a great deal of load on the m5 locknut as it merely serves to stop the outer cone from rotating out of adjustment . Its all made from high tensile steel and a torque of about 7nM should be more than adequate , though I prefer to rely...

Not Good ! The third pic is the only way to go and use a V brake noodle to improve the cable run at the hanger Or revert to a non aero set up ?

The Shimano Tool TL-PD63 is designed to adjust two different pedal sizes The tubular sockets measure outer 11mm / inner 8mm or outer 10mm / inner 7mm All sizes nominal and measured A/F ( across flats )

An update on my earlier suggestion ........... The flanged head of a rivnut is 0.98mm thick A hacksaw blade ( Starrett ) is 0.92mm thick , so it will fit in the available space . However it would be best to blunt both sides of the hacksaw teeth with a Dremel or similar , to avoid damage to...

The bike came with cantilever brakes front and back originally , so you should have no problems fitting them ? Boyetiful ( above ) has fitted Suntour Self Energisers to his Shogun , I would recommend them on the rear , particularly at the low price being offered at SJS Cycles . Good luck...

If you place a hacksaw blade between the cable guide and the frame tube you could possibly cut a 'flat' on one side of the flanged head of the rivnut , stopping rotation as you cut with an allen key . Cut a similar 'flat' on the other side , and now if you can make a simple plate spanner...

The Shimano date code KB on the brake lever in your first photo gives Feb 1986 as the manufacturing date of the lever , so your bike was made some time after that date . In the same photo the thumbshifter looks to be an EM series SL-MT 50 with a chromed steel base , an aluminium shifter and a...

Hi , If you search for Ridgeback 501 you will find a number of posts about my 1986 model with details of original component specs . Hope this helps

Its even more fun setting them up when you first realise they are not compatible with standard brake pivots ! I have a boxed set of nos XC6000's and a pair of brake pivots are included with dimensions to show where they should be brazed onto a frame . My Muddy Fox Trailblazer ( 1989 )...

I did not associate one gross with Italian metric measurements ! I now realise they are OCI spokes though there is no name on the box The spoke head is slightly textured

Just came across a box of stainless steel spokes made in Italy . They are named as ' One Gross ' on the box At first sight they appeared to be double butted spokes however on closer inspection they are of aero profile but still small enough to go through a standard spoke hole . Has anyone...

The dropout was originally held in 'position' by two m4 (?) button head socket screws . I suspect that the aluminium dropout was also glued/bonded to the magnesium alloy ( like other parts of the frame ) and the screws were only used to hold the dropout in the correct position while the...

My f3 forks are fitted with Shimano XT v brakes , so in effect the 'rotor' size is around 26" in diameter ! The max load I can put through the fork occurs when the wheel is on the point of locking up . This stopping force is applied to the bike through the front axle and is transmitted up the...

I am guessing that you have fitted the same brake front and back ? hopefully at £4.99 a pair from SJS The question is how well do the 'front' brakes work ? The suntour/pedersen was only supplied as a self energising rear brake so its hard to see how it would work if you fitted it 'backwards' to...

Nice looking restoration , well done What brakes do you have on there ? they look almost like suntour/pedersen self energisers ?

Sounds like a good option , in which case you could remove the retaining screw from the back and make use of the existing tapped hole to guide your drill . You can drill from the back using an extra long series drill ( 4mm x 120mm say ) this will hopefully emerge at the front on the exact...

You will need to heat the bracket to around 200C to weaken the adhesive and then pry it off with something like a screwdriver blade Remove all the old adhesive before you re-assemble using something like Devcon and hold the bracket in place with the small screw

The brake bosses were originally bonded into the seatstay bracket with an epoxy structural adhesive , and were retained in position while the adhesive cured , by a small pan head socket screw . The seatstay brackets were treated similarly , the screws did not contribute any significant strength...

These generalized statements can't go unchallenged ! 1 If you are going to build a wheel you will need some basic measuring equipment to determine both rim and hub dimensions which will be needed to make an accurate spoke length calculation . See Sheldon Brown on wheelbuilding for...

Ditto what he said ! A bit of touchup on the paint followed by a good polish , sort out/clean the various components one at a time , and in a few weeks you will have a perfectly serviceable and stylish retro bike for a minimal outlay . Otherwise sell it exactly as is . At least its been saved...