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Re: I use 303 Aerospace Protectorant. It works.

Re: If you get good, well focused and well-lit photos of each of the components we can identify them for you. Of highest value would be for the parts to be period correct. As it is a Blue Riband, if any of the components are Lytaloy there is a strong market, with premium prices. The photo...

Re: a wonderful selection of components. Will it be ridden or for display?

Re: I use A-Class as well. For me, it is a 20 minute drive. They are very good to deal with. We also have very talented frame painters and liners in Adelaide. Many Australian frames of the 1940s and 50s had extraordinary decoration and we have a talented artisan who can reproduce the lines...

these firms suggest you also live far from where it was built.

Re: does this narrow the possibilities: http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk/fr ... ering.html

Fibrax 269 pads were promoted as "Specially made for use with alloy rims. This new material has been specially produced to save alloy rims from excessive wear and is confidently offered after long periods of testing in the laboratory and on the road." see Brown Brothers 1952 catalogue p17 With...

Re: an enjoyable read, very respectful to the bike. Did you use the Fibrax Raincheater pads? If you need for a bit of comfort, I have the (reproduction) Shockstop 'honking' rubbers that fit those levers. I have the mould made for reproducing the Shockstop handlebar end plugs, so they too could...

Re: From Classic Lightweights- Wheels for 1945-60s classic lightweights "1. Dunlop “Special Lightweight.” The most common sporting rim of the sporting cyclists. Chrome-plated steel and prone to rust. Warning, whilst re-plating is possible, acids tend to get trapped within the voids and...

nah, how about an Aussie bike! Not one of the the big brand names sideon by philip.knight, on Flickr from riders position by philip.knight, on Flickr Designed by and built in 1987 for the rider whose name is on the top tube. Built in Adelaide, Australia with the paintwork and hand painted names...

Re: For the cleaning, I would suggest you have a read of this thread (if you haven't already) viewtopic.php?f=23&t=389688 the project is also at https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/324825/ has useful information for degreasing, frame cleaning and derusting (Evaporust), then waxing. If this...

Re: nice project. have you seen these two catalogues? https://web.archive.org/web/20180403123 ... 50s-UK.pdf https://web.archive.org/web/20180403123 ... 955-UK.pdf and this road test http://veterancycleclublibrary.org.uk/ncl/pics/Sun%20Manxman%20article%201955%20(V-CC%20Library).pdf

Evaporust: I am pleased to see you getting the results. So good to see a product that works so well. Mechanical rust removal on that Simplex plate would likely have seen the remaining text abraded. Just make sure you use a wax or the oily rag to provide a thin film. The choice will depend on...

Re: my preferred method of rust removal is to use chemicals rather than the use of an abrasive. An abrasive will scratch and further damage the already compromised finish. Try to find some Evaporust, it works and is reusable. Just make sure you degrease the components first to get more...

Re: Wonderful project with original parts. It fits in the middle of my period of interest. There are many resources out there for most of the components and plenty of techniques we have acquired. If you are looking for practical advice, I think you would enjoy reading 7VEN's 1947 Hobbs of...

now time to submit that entry

it is daylight where I am, and as it is 1 September, it is Spring.

Re: the 1955-56 catalogue in the V-CC library has the FD range as 22 teeth when used with chainrings between 28 and 50 teeth, down from the 28 to 52 teeth for the Juy-53 FD described in the 1953 catalogue and no fitting instructions jumped out in my searching, but the Tourist 303 instructions...

Re: have you seen the documents on Disraeli Gears? a quick check suggests there is little difference with the 1st and 2nd style apart from the part 853 being replaced by part 900. 1st style 2nd style see if there are any other changes. Then you need to see which chain width/speed variation...

Re: After viewing the red detailing a few times, I am liking it. It will help tie some of the details together for my current project. Mine move at glacial speed, yours move at warp speed. Any more updates?