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If you want to get a bit more technical, I reckon that: On the old MTB cable disk jobbies you have to put the pads very close to the rotor, hence, even the slightest misalignment causes disk rub. Also, on flat bars you use the full length of the lever when you press it. What it translates into...

Rant almost over. There is, of course, thought #4: Why, for the love of Reynolds-531db-riding-God do we need disk brakes on road bikes? You don't constantly get sand or mud building up on the rims, rendering them useless and grinding them away, like you get with MTBs. With a caliper brake you...

Thought #3: The bike industry answers to your question (Why aren't my cable-operated road disk brakes working) are: - Your cable housings compress too much, Have you tried zero compression housings at £60 a pop? - Your cables are not good enough, but we can sell you new cables for just £30 for...

AAARGH!!! How did I miss this thread?!? I'm the runner-up for the lifetime "biggest road disk hater" award :LOL: Short answer: ditch the pizza cutters, get yourself some real brakes. Long answer: the road disk brakes have driven me to the insanity of retro-modding a 1950s French randonneuse...

I've used Bilt Hamber Hydrate-80 on mine, inside & out. Careful around the threads - when it dries, it might be hard to shift. This included squeezing it into the tubes via the vent holes, but the excess is tricky to get out. No need for framesaver after that, afaik.

Surprised CRC went bust. I always thought their prices were very reasonable and they had a global customer base. Isla bikes stopped production/went bust (?) a few months ago, but that was hardly a surprise given £900 price tags for a mid-spec child's bike.

Isn't that the definition of capitalism.

Just read the thread - gutted to hear they went under and gutted that I missed the crazy sale, but it looks like the website is back and working? Did Evans buy the name? Last time I walked into an Evans shop, the experience was uninspiring: - Do you sell 650B rims in 32h drilling? - I'll call...

That's exactly what I was thinking, but I've heard many times of folks recommending tough hubs.:confused:

Can't find any info on them in the catalogues - big enough for a 6ft2 bugger? Or will it be a circus monkey on a bike scenario?

What's the frame size? Sorry, can't seem to find it in the thread :oops:

Hi all, Hoping to pick your brains about using a Novatec "lighweight" road hub A171SB, F172SB in a rigid 26'er wheel build. I've got a vintage MTB frame I'd like to build up, and the rear is for a 130mm hub. I also have got at least 2 pairs of said Nova hubs that have proven to be very good...

Well, this makes sense... The result will be bike-specific of course, and even then there's an element of black magic in getting your ratio right. In my case the studs are so close to the rim for a V-brake, that I'll be getting half the pad travel compared to a typical "modern" V-brake stud. On...

Re the brakes, there's certainly some flex in the front cable hanger. My next step was to attempt using V-brakes. I can fit a travel adapter if the cable pull ratio is way off. Just ordered a pair of Deores for my kids' net bike, so will try to fit them to Frannie first.

Thank you. The current hanger is a Tektro jobbie, like this one from SJS https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/brakes/raleigh-front-brake-cable-hanger/ I think it's reasonably robust, but if you think a different hanger will work better, that sounds like a good investment. Retro P2 konas and...

Looks like a couple surface scratches and a few holes drilled to reduce the frame weight. No biggie by my standards.

Surely, it's "Randonneuse"? A randonneur is the person riding the randonneuse?

Next thing you're going to tell me that 100mm & 130mm QR axles are retro too :eek:

Not a retrobike, but there is a bridge in the background.

If memory serves me right, Bojack's first test ride.