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I avoid LBS as much as possible, which is sad because there are many in my neighborhood. But the only reliable one is an hour away. My case: I had a rear puncture but also I needed to have a headset crown race installed and the steerer tube shortened on a new alu/carbon rigid 29er fork...

No idea. I emailed Jack about dust caps and cranks a few years ago, as soon as the Cook Bros. site was resurrected; I never got a reply, and internet rumors suggest that I shouldn't hold my breath. There was a thread on here about doing a group buy (maybe it was just dust caps rather than...

An awesome bike. I'd heard about it but never seen it. Thanks for posting, Kaiser. Re. the tall frame: As explained by Tom Ritchey himself - There were no long seatposts available (maybe Cunningham was already looking into it?), so that limited the options for compact frame geometry.

I would love one (primarily in the big-wheel versions), if they looked like a proper Ritchey. I understand the reason for the bent downtube, but I don't like it. And they all lack THE definitive Ritchey trademark: The fastback seat cluster, with the seat stays meeting the clamp. If they had...

Welcome to RB! I'm not sure you'll get much feedback here about fitting petrol tanks to cruisers. The best place is http://www.ratrodbikes.com/. But cover your eyes first if you're a purist. Some of the projects on Rat Rods are awesome... but others are heinous crimes. :lol:

I don't have a dog in this race (so to speak), but I just wanted to say: This is what makes Retrobike special: People like Dan, who make the effort to post detailed responses in order to help other members. Nice cranks, BTW :D

I attended public events as a free walk-up "Bike Doctor", servicing punters' bikes (most seemingly recovered from canals). And also had a Raleigh Grifter as a kid... where to start the nightare stories...? :lol:

I think the brown tape & Brooks would be awesome. I'd leave the canti mounts, too. You could get some pimped-out blanking plugs, or make/modify some sort of "Humu-appropriate" rack: ...for beer: http://www.charliethebikemonger.com/pdw ... 1245-p.asp ...skateboard...

Some years (in some markets) had a coaster brake with a tab on the left chainstay; those frames didn't have any cantilever posts on the seat stays.

Trigonmetry, Jim— Google it.

Over-priced.

Another negative vote for setting up cantis. And re-greasing the split-wedge style EBB on my SS. It requires crank puller, hex keys, resetting front chainline and chain tension, lots of messy copper grease, and more time & patience than I have. So I just avoid all that & let it creak.

It was exactly the same with the idiots doing the BMX coverage. I was watching it online (in German). As soon as I heard "Steven Spielberg..E.T...." I knew it was time to turn the sound down to avoid "commentator bull$h!t"

I also like "weird"; I'd love to try a Bow-Ti some day. The quality of Steve Potts' work on that disc tab is just awesome. Re. payment protection worries: Fund the bank transfer via a credit card, then you have all the muscle of Visa etc. behind you. As an aside: Anyone who thinks...

I used a Mavic adapter for the rear. Also, I tried it on a Humu with track ends, so just slid the wheel back until it cleared at the chainstays. I didn't do any re-dishing or wheel building. I didn't get beyond riding down the street, because the larger wheels altered the BB height and (more...

How will you get the brakes to work? (OK, just read that bit. I also used the Mavic adapters. Worked OK). FYI, I tried it on a 95 Kona & got nasty steering & toe overlap even with skinny tires and no mudguards (19-inch frame).