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This might help. Picture of one of my Mosers, brought over from Italy by Sansom team member Phil Edwards December 1979. Specially built by De Rosa with Campagnolo Super record titanium group set. Original spec included Mavic Blue SSC rims, Everest alloy 6 speed freewheel and 8 ounce Pirelli...

Nervex Pro were very common mid 50s to mid 60s. The cable guide on the bottom bracket appears to be backwards. Perhaps someone added the carrier lugs, was that a bottle cage boss? (not common in the 50s). Frame number could indicate year? Keith

From memory the cheap Jubillee was made until Claud Butler name was sold The Bi-laminate was also of course lugless. Keith

The RRA would surely be butted tubing. In those days the weight of a frame would include forks, headset and bracket set.

I am afraid it is just a cheap frame with some generic transfers. Definitely not Holdsworth or Holdsworthy. Could be from the 50s to 70s. Keith

Sean, Thanet Cycles (before I took it on) were well known for using A & P, he used to blame them when the down tubes snapped. Of course it was due to his crazy design using 1 inch tubes and overstressing them. Also building the frames locked into rigid jigs didn't help. Keith

Dave, thats odd because most of the cast lugs used on lightweight frames at that time were made 71 seat and 73 head. You could pull them about a degree, so could make them into 72 x 72, but 73 seat and 71 head would be very unusual. Keith

The fork column (not steerer then) could have been on a shelf for years. I suspect A & P tubing gradually faded away as they were owned by TI. So not much info. Keith

Fairly low end model, could be early 70s. There may be a date code on the Weinmann brakes, try taking the front brake off, might be something on the back plate. you can look up Weinmann dating codes.

The head lugs look like castings, is it 73 head and 71 seat angle. I can't remember seeing that type of wrapover before very late 50s, but the rest of the frame looks a bit earlier. Not much help. Looks later than the "53" in the frame number might suggest. Keith

These are standard Nottingham Raleighs. So you have 26 threads per inch head and bottom bracket threads, (Raleigh own standard) I would have expected 26 inch wheels, The fronts are common enough, but the rear ends may be only 5 / 16 inch instead of 3 / 8 inch, most bikes now are 10mm, so there...

No. The old British tyre sizes indicate the outside diameter (26 inches) and the depth of the tyre (1 1/2 inches) 1 3/8 would be too large by 1/4 inch diameterat the wire bead. 26 x 1 1/2 was rare by the early 1950s. Is it possibly 28 x 1 1/2 Keith

Looks like a Holdsworthy frame, number from late 1959 to early 1960. The williams chainset might have a date code also. At that time The Holdsworthy Company sold Freddy Grubb as the cheapest, Claud Butler were mid range and Holdsworth were their top frames which could be built to specification...

Those holes are in the seat tube not the lug. Some frames just had a chiselled hole, some manage without gas holes. Keith

I seem to remember rain at least 3 times a week when I was riding the 12 miles to work in 1950. Most of the SA gears were on totally neglected commuter bikes in the 1950s. If a gear cable or toggle chain broke they mostly managed with the high gear only. Water entered through the ball race...

A 1954 bike deserves to have the gear ratios calculated in inches. Chainwheel divide by cog multiply by wheel diameter in inches. This dates from the old ordinary, a measure of the equivalent front wheel diameter. I spent too much time in the 50s sorting out SA hubs that were full of rusty...

The cheap chainwheel is surely not original. Also I would be concerned about the safety of the handlebar stem. Looks like a Reynolds, and if so were prone to failure 60 years ago.

It looks Italian, mid 70s to me, as to the maker or original name I can't even guess, since it appears to have been refinished. The bottom bracket should be 36mm x 24TPI right hand thread both sides. The head tube transfer certainly fits the holes. Keith

Sturmey Archer rear hub will have a date code, Month/Year if its the original wheel. without seeing it probably early 1950s. Keith

You could start by running the chain on a suitable existing cog and probably the inside chainring, shortening the chain to suit. Choose the most suitable chain line and see if the gear choice is OK. Keith