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The money spent on assembling the collection has gone. Don't worry about it. If you couldn't have afforded it you wouldn't have spent it. Move on. Keep the best as a focus for your collecting habit. Give the other stuff away. There are charities that send old bikes to Africa where a bike can...

Got a set of these bars off ebay. I assume they were bought in to put on the built up bikes Viking sold. The bars have '58' stamped above the GB logo near the left hand bar end. I'm assuming it's the date of manufacture. Did GB date all their bars in this way? Any help from GB experts will...

By way of a thank you to all who offered help let me say I've had success! I sacked the GB stem onto Cinelli bars futile attempt. Instead I fitted the GB stem onto GB bars. It was still a squeeze getting it round the second tight bend and I had to use the screwdriver wedge trick on the clamp...

Thanks, but there is no tapped hole in the stem clamp. It tightens with a a hex nut.

Thanks for all your help with suggestions. On reflection I think I've used enough brute force (and a lot of ignorance) and don't want to end up spoiling the stem AND bars. I've ordered a set of GB bars so hopefully the GB stem will slide on all nice and snug.

I've been trying in vain to fit al old GB stem to some Cinelli Giro d'Italia bars. The bend on the bars seems to be too acute for the stem to travel round the bend. Though it slips on easy on the straight part. The stem clamps with a nut and bolt so I cannot use the coin trick to expand the...

Oh Bugger! I thought I had posted it in the road section. What did I say above about visualising failure :( Thank you ^

I bet I'll struggle like crazy to get the stem around the tight bend only to find it won't fit over the wider clamping area. I'm good at visualising failure - I've been there so many times before. I might bite the bullet and forget about the Cinelli bars and look for some GB Maes bars instead...

Thanks guys. I was wondering if I had a mismatch (Italian bars & GB stem) but hopefully with a combination of force, twisting and shouting I might succeed. I've already been smacked in the mouth with the end of the bar tonight - I'll give it another go tomorrow.

I've been trying in vain to fit al old GB stem to some Cinelli Giro d'Italia bars. The bend on the bars seems to be too acute for the stem to travel round the bend. The stem clamps with a nut and bolt so I cannot use the coin trick to expand the clamp. Is there a knack, or do I need a set of...

I'm impressed Keith. Did the team supply them or did you have to save your pocket money? I bet there weren't many in the peloton (or the breakaway) with silks :D

Thanks Keith, Silk tubs, I recall, were the lightest (and most expensive) and favoured for track racing or for special time trials. Since my original post I've seen an old "Continental" catalogue on Flickr which shows a selection of tubs a bit wider than 1", some as wide as 1 1/4". It might be...

Help please. I'm wanting to create a sprints and tubs look on a mid 1950's re-build by using 700c's and narrow tyres. Does anyone know how wide tubs were back in the day?

WANTED PLEASE: Rear hub 120mm over locknut. 32 or 36 holes. English thread for a 5-speed srew-on freewheel block. Needed for a 1954 Viking re-build

This is intriguing, but I'm not sure I fully understand. Let's start with the kit required: 1 Bar end lever 2 long gear cable + some outer 3 cable stop on top tube near head lug 4 Sturmey pulley wheel mounted below seat lug 5 below bb cable guide 6 A front mech I've no problem with 1 to 5. All...

Thanks Keith, I'll start looking. But before I do please tell me how efficient this front changing method is. It might have been an early 1950s fad that never caught on for obvious reasons. Both levers being on the rh side is handy - but a lh lever has worked for the majority for many years and...

All the pics are in my head at moment Shaun. Frame is at the refinishers. I intend running a single 40T chainring at first with a 14-28 5-speed freewheel block (back end is 120mm). But a 40/34 double might be required later (I live in the South Pennines and my legs are old) in which case I...

I think I've got it now. The cable MUST reach the pinch bolt from below. Therefore the cable could run under the bottom bracket in cable housing in which case two cable stops are required: one at the bottom of the seat tube and another integral to the front mech (Shaun's Suntour/early Campag...

I'm probably being a bit dense. I don't quite understand the need for a cable stop. The Sturmey pulley wheel guides the bare cable around the sharp bend (top tube to seat tube) and from there isn't it a straight run to the front mech's pinch bolt? But I bet I'm missing a trick as per usual ;)

I've just acquired a Viking 'Tour of Britain' with a double cable stop on top tube to allow the front mech to be operated from a rh bar end lever with the cable running along the top tube and down the seat tube via a Sturmey Archer pulley wheel located near the seat lug. This method was favoured...